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The Main Cliffs
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Green Corners T 
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North Sneak T 
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North Sneak 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: perhaps Gerry Roach?
Season: closed Feb 1-Aug 1.
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 7, 2014

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Stuart Paul solos up the North Sneak on the Main C...

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  • Description 

    This is a pleasant climb on the upper half and potentially pleasant on the lower half, depending on the route taken. Choose wisely for the best rock. The second pitch is a mellow romp with a spectacular position.

    P1: start at the base, just North of the obvious summit block of the South Peak of Green Mt. (AKA: Main Crag of the Sacred Cliffs). Climb up perhaps 25 meters, picking a line with the easiest moves and best stone. It is perhaps 5.4. Arrive at a good ledge near a notch to the East Face.

    P2: scramble up and left (East) along the North face of this summit block, perhaps even deciding to use the 5.7 jamcrack to climb up and get onto the NE arete, or staying with flakes and slopers just left and above this for a 5.4 way. Get onto the ridge, and follow the crack and slab to the true summit.

    Location 

    The first pitch of this route ascends one of 2 steep (vertical) gullies left of the North end of the true South summit of Green Mountain. The second works left (East) onto the North East Arete of the summit ridge, then up for 100'+ to the true summit and a spectacular 360' view.

    Protection 

    A standard light rack, or solo. If you roped up for this and do not wish to down-climb the route, there are some 2-bolt anchors (but no slings on the hangers) that you will pass above Poultry in Motion and North Face Crack. You can improvise a rap from there.


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