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New River Gorge Proper

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Ambassador Buttress 
Beauty Mountain 
Bridge Area 
Bubba City 
Cotton Top 
Domino Point 
Endless Wall 
Fern Buttress 
Hawk's Nest Dam 
Interp Boulders 
Junkyard Area 
Kaymoor 
Keeney's Buttress 
South Nuttall 
Sunshine Crag 

New River Gorge Proper Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.0779, -81.0634 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 422,475
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Oct 10, 2007
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Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, South Nuttal, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.

Location 

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

777 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',137],['3 Stars',342],['2 Stars',220],['1 Star',60],['Bomb',7]
['<=5.6',27],['5.7',33],['5.8',40],['5.9',71],['5.10',163],['5.11',178],['5.12',170],['5.13',50],['>=5.14',4],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',5],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',2],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New River Gorge Proper:
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Flight of the Gumby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Rico Suave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Party in My Mind   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress
Rapscallion's Blues   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Disturbance   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Beauty Mountain : Genocide Cave
Psycho Wrangler   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cotton Top
Freaky Stylee   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Bullet the New Sky   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New River Gorge Proper

Featured Route For New River Gorge Proper
Rock Climbing Photo: The New's resident DJ, Jason B. working out the be...

Munson Burner 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : South Nuttall
This route pulls a low roof into a pair of cracks that snake up the gorgeous chunk of South Nuttall sandstone. This is a killer route with stout climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Photos of New River Gorge Proper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.

Comments on New River Gorge Proper Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Aug 13, 2011
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila??
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Aug 17, 2011
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles....
By katiepl87
Apr 19, 2014
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail?
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 19, 2014
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price.

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