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North Side 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 11, 2001

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The steeper escape from the upper gully. A sharp e...

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  • Description 

    This is an interesting scrambling tour from Mallory Cave. While hikers are often seen investigating this route, it is important to realize that it is a technical climb - a fall from the upper portion would be serious. For technically compentent climbers, though, it is a reasonable and fun free solo. Be extra cautious about knocking rocks off on hikers below. In 2001, this route (and the entire Mallory Cave Area) was closed April 1 to Oct 1.

    Begin 80' east of the opening of Mallory Cave. Gain a ramp on the north side of the Finger Flatiron and follow it past a strange leaning tree until you are nearly above the cave opening. Traverse left and climb the gully between the Sharks Fin and Finger Flatiron. Where this gully becomes harder, move right past a small tree, to another ramp leading back left to the notch.

    From the notch, spiral left around the Sharks Fin on a ramp until you reach a tree under a short vertical wall on the south face. Climb this, then make a few exposed moves up the east face to the pointy summit.

    Downclimb the top of the route, then climb north up the gully west of the Finger Flatiron back to the Dinosaur Mountain trail.


    Light rack.

    Photos of North Side Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Probably not on route, but it worked out.
    Probably not on route, but it worked out.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Summit.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Warren Teissier ridin' the Sharks Fin, Flatirons C...
    Warren Teissier ridin' the Sharks Fin, Flatirons C...

    Comments on North Side Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 7, 2014
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

    By "spiral left" I believe that the writer means to say back around to the West and then South sides.... Otherwise the climbing is significantly harder.

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