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Gregory Flatironette aka Fifth Pinnacle
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North Ridge/Gregory Flatironette T 
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North Ridge/Gregory Flatironette 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 919
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Apr 17, 2002

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  • Description 

    Use the North ridge approach mentioned on the rock description.

    Approach the lower broken section of the ridge from the West and scramble up some 50 feet until the ridge is better defined.

    P1- Climb up the ridge on easy but brittle and licheny ramps. After some 30-50 feet place your last piece for a while and traverse left unto the East face. Delicate face climbing among the lichen will put put you on a broken ledge. Traverse left and up and belay at a small tree with a nice hand crack on the back.

    P2 - Traverse left and up to a large narrowing slot and move up to the top of the ridge. Run up the ridge.

    From here, the top of the ridge is broken and undefined. You can unrope and follow it to a pinpoint summit after a bit of hiking. You can hike South from here to reach the Amphitheater or Saddle Rock trail.


    Standard Flatiron rack, up to #3 Camalot.

    Comments on North Ridge/Gregory Flatironette Add Comment
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    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 27, 2005
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    This is a good-fun route with mostly [aesthetic] climbing and a very short approach. I climbed this route today. I think we started a bit differently than in the description here. The guidebook has this at 5.4 but I think thats a bit of a sandbag given the lichen on this climb. It's your standard low-angle flatiron unprotected slab-fest, but with the unpredictable nature of the friction feet on lichen I'd say it felt more like 5.6 in P1-2.

    P1 : Start to the left of a large bush 10-15 feet up the face. The start is between the bush and a cave to the left. Traverse right toward the bush to gain the arrette. Climb the arrete for 10-15' then cross over into a very crumbly and licheny slot. Lots of good pro here. Climb the slot until its possible to regain the [arete], then traverse left to a ledge. (Felt like 5.6 )

    P2: Traverse right around some boulders and head up the edge of the ridge. All friction here but less lichen and good rock very [aesthetic]. Climb until the ridge flattens out and belay. 5.6 ~120'.

    P3: From here its a 4th class simul-climb to the summit. Follow the ridge past trees to a small block summit. An easy boulder problem puts you on top.

    Decent: Down-climb the summit block and head right through a hole in the rock, one large step and you're on the terra firma. Hike directly south to a trail then turn right (uphill) to the Saddle Rock trail junction. Take the Saddle Rock Trail back to the base.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 14, 2006
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

    I did this last June, sticking directly to the arete the whole way. This was my normal Flatirons ascent style, which means free solo, in approach shoes. I found it to be one of the more ennervating Flatirons. It was licheny and in a few spots a little crumbly. It was also NOT 5.2, at least that way...
    By neil chelton
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 25, 2009

    Pitch one variation:

    Start 100ft up and left (east) of the toe of the buttress. Aesthetically ascend the sparsely protected slab on solid positive crimps to a tree. Continue directly up on easier ground with better protection to reach the big blocky ledge on the arete (5.5R 130ft). This avoids the original crumbly lichenous start.
    By Paul Deger
    From: Colorado
    Sep 3, 2017
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Disclaimer: may have been off route! Worst rock I have ever climbed on - not just crazy lichen but crisp/crumbly rock! If this was solid rock, yes, easily a 5.2, but most of the time, no solid feet or hands due to the condition of rock. We probably did not cut left early enough - going straight up the north blocky arete to a gully with bush and filled with loose rock, up and out of the gully right to a nice crack for a solid anchor and place to sit and belay. Went up from here to small tree - options here were left onto face with minimal features, straight up into big crack or traverse right and scramble down to walk out to Saddle Rock Trail. Decided to take the traverse right and out.
    For the beginner leader - total sandbag - avoid!

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