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Gregory Flatironette aka Fifth Pinnacle
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North Ridge/Gregory Flatironette T 
South Ridge / Gregory Flatironette T 

North Ridge/Gregory Flatironette 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c R

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Apr 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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  • Description 

    Use the North ridge approach mentioned on the rock description.

    Approach the lower broken section of the ridge from the West and scramble up some 50 feet until the ridge is better defined.

    P1- Climb up the ridge on easy but brittle and licheny ramps. After some 30-50 feet place your last piece for a while and traverse left unto the East face. Delicate face climbing among the lichen will put put you on a broken ledge. Traverse left and up and belay at a small tree with a nice hand crack on the back.

    P2 - Traverse left and up to a large narrowing slot and move up to the top of the ridge. Run up the ridge.

    From here, the top of the ridge is broken and undefined. You can unrope and follow it to a pinpoint summit after a bit of hiking. You can hike South from here to reach the Amphitheater or Saddle Rock trail.

    Protection 

    Standard Flatiron rack, up to #3 Camalot.


    Comments on North Ridge/Gregory Flatironette Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 27, 2005
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    This is a good-fun route with mostly [aesthetic] climbing and a very short approach. I climbed this route today. I think we started a bit differently than in the description here. The guidebook has this at 5.4 but I think thats a bit of a sandbag given the lichen on this climb. It's your standard low-angle flatiron unprotected slab-fest, but with the unpredictable nature of the friction feet on lichen I'd say it felt more like 5.6 in P1-2.

    P1 : Start to the left of a large bush 10-15 feet up the face. The start is between the bush and a cave to the left. Traverse right toward the bush to gain the arrette. Climb the arrete for 10-15' then cross over into a very crumbly and licheny slot. Lots of good pro here. Climb the slot until its possible to regain the [arete], then traverse left to a ledge. (Felt like 5.6 )

    P2: Traverse right around some boulders and head up the edge of the ridge. All friction here but less lichen and good rock very [aesthetic]. Climb until the ridge flattens out and belay. 5.6 ~120'.

    P3: From here its a 4th class simul-climb to the summit. Follow the ridge past trees to a small block summit. An easy boulder problem puts you on top.

    Decent: Down-climb the summit block and head right through a hole in the rock, one large step and you're on the terra firma. Hike directly south to a trail then turn right (uphill) to the Saddle Rock trail junction. Take the Saddle Rock Trail back to the base.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 14, 2006
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

    I did this last June, sticking directly to the arete the whole way. This was my normal Flatirons ascent style, which means free solo, in approach shoes. I found it to be one of the more ennervating Flatirons. It was licheny and in a few spots a little crumbly. It was also NOT 5.2, at least that way...
    By neil chelton
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 25, 2009

    Pitch one variation:

    Start 100ft up and left (east) of the toe of the buttress. Aesthetically ascend the sparsely protected slab on solid positive crimps to a tree. Continue directly up on easier ground with better protection to reach the big blocky ledge on the arete (5.5R 130ft). This avoids the original crumbly lichenous start.

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