|Original:||YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Apr 17, 2002|
|Comments on North Ridge/Gregory Flatironette||Add Comment|
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By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
This is a good-fun route with mostly [aesthetic] climbing and a very short approach. I climbed this route today. I think we started a bit differently than in the description here. The guidebook has this at 5.4 but I think thats a bit of a sandbag given the lichen on this climb. It's your standard low-angle flatiron unprotected slab-fest, but with the unpredictable nature of the friction feet on lichen I'd say it felt more like 5.6 in P1-2.
P1 : Start to the left of a large bush 10-15 feet up the face. The start is between the bush and a cave to the left. Traverse right toward the bush to gain the arrette. Climb the arrete for 10-15' then cross over into a very crumbly and licheny slot. Lots of good pro here. Climb the slot until its possible to regain the [arete], then traverse left to a ledge. (Felt like 5.6 )
P2: Traverse right around some boulders and head up the edge of the ridge. All friction here but less lichen and good rock very [aesthetic]. Climb until the ridge flattens out and belay. 5.6 ~120'.
P3: From here its a 4th class simul-climb to the summit. Follow the ridge past trees to a small block summit. An easy boulder problem puts you on top.
Decent: Down-climb the summit block and head right through a hole in the rock, one large step and you're on the terra firma. Hike directly south to a trail then turn right (uphill) to the Saddle Rock trail junction. Take the Saddle Rock Trail back to the base.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
|I did this last June, sticking directly to the arete the whole way. This was my normal Flatirons ascent style, which means free solo, in approach shoes. I found it to be one of the more ennervating Flatirons. It was licheny and in a few spots a little crumbly. It was also NOT 5.2, at least that way...|
By neil chelton
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 25, 2009
Pitch one variation:
Start 100ft up and left (east) of the toe of the buttress. Aesthetically ascend the sparsely protected slab on solid positive crimps to a tree. Continue directly up on easier ground with better protection to reach the big blocky ledge on the arete (5.5R 130ft). This avoids the original crumbly lichenous start.