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North Ridge 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
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Submitted By: kenr on Aug 3, 2016

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Description 

Interesting beginner route with variety of rock situations useful for learning - or just fun.
With the convenience of a 2-bolt top anchor.

Useful for setting up top anchors for TR of other routes on the Locals Only crag.

Start how high? If start from the flat sandy ground below the boulders, then it's about 150 feet to the bolt anchors. So a 50 meter rope would be sufficient for the leader to be protected, and then belay the follower(s) from the top. But that distance is much too long for "normal" Top-Roping with belaying the follower climbers from the bottom (even a 70 or 80 meter rope would not come close to enough for that) - So ...

Top-Roping with belay from the bottom is better done from the top of the stack of boulders (about 25-30 feet higher than than the sandy flat ground). It's about 120 feet from here to the bolt anchor, so a 70 meter rope still is not sufficient to bottom-belay from the 2-bolt anchor. But if extend the top master point through which the top-rope runs down at least six feet down from the bolt anchor (using a cord or long sling) - (though extending down farther almost fifteen feet will reduce rope drag for bottom-belay) ... then a 70 meter rope can work for TR with bottom-belay, with the belayer stable on top of the boulders, and the climber starting up from there.

Route: First scramble up to the top of the pile of big boulders to reach the start of the continuous rock surface of the ridge.
Next make some climbing moves on the right side of the base of the ridge, to get up onto the top of ridge. Then non-steep directly up the slab on the top of the ridge. Next meet the steep part -- up and left on positive holds to slanted ledge on left side of big nose. Finish up right on a ramp (balancy and exposed).

Variation: Interesting moves (5.6). When reach the upper steep part, go up and right to the right side of the big nose to a ledge, then up a corner (a bit awkward?) to the bolt anchor. (TR with bottom-belay expect lots of rope-drag unless extend master point almost twenty feet down (and sideways) from the bolt anchor.

Beginners Learning: Most of the route is not visible from the bottom, so if want a learning climber to be coached through the most difficult moves, need to have a watching coach-person near the top. And since a learning climber might actually fall -- and go sideways down off the ridge -- see under Protection below about placing directional protection.

Location 

Walk to the left (north) side of the main face and look up to see the north ridge which ramps obviously up toward the top -- with some big boulders stacked about 25 feet high below its bottom.

Protection 

Trad gear: cams up to 2 inches (with an optional spot for a 2.5 inch), and medium stoppers could be useful.

2-bolt anchor at top.

Directionals: Careful that even if Leader is comfortable climbing this route with minimal protection, without directional protection a following climber who falls low on the route may swing sideways right-ward, or who falls in the middle section might swing sideways left-ward and go down into a dark chasm.


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