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North Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  , 2000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Mod. Snow [details]
FA: Sidney S. Mohler August 9 1903
Season: Summer
Page Views: 717
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Sep 26, 2014

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Coming around the finial traverse on the North Rid...

Description 

The North Ridge is perhaps the route of choice for a party that does not want to deal with slog around to the Whitewater Glacier or the complexity of the North Shoulder finish to Jeff Park Glacier. However, this route is one that should be done only when snow covered as otherwise is it a scree slope.

From Jeff Park gain the ridge generally staying the east side of the ridge crest. Once the ridge steepens significantly, begin a leftward traverse under the steep conglomerated headwall. Depending on conditions, it may be possible to climb a steep chute that leads to the ridge crest. If not continue trending left around the ridge crest at which point it will be possible to traverse into the col between the ridge crest and the summit pinnacle.

Location 

The North Ridge can be gained from a camp in Jeff Park. One can also gain the ridge from Jeff Park Glacier. However, this variation involves climbing some steep snow and alpine ice. See the Jeff Park Glacier topo photo.

Protection 

Pickets, a few screws, and perhaps a nut or two. Using two tools is not unreasonable - especially if doing the variation from Jeff Park Glacier.


Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing through the rock band up the variation be...
Climbing through the rock band up the variation be...
Rock Climbing Photo: High on the North Ridge traversing under the ridge...
High on the North Ridge traversing under the ridge...

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