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Aiguille de l'M
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North Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Summer
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Chris S on Jul 20, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Aiguille de l'M, Boston Basin, North Cascades Nati...


The North Ridge starts at the obvious col between the Aiguille and the Torment-Forbidden ridge. 2-3 pitches of almost-level ridge climbing can be pitched out, simul-climbed, or short-roped (3rd class). A single 4th class pitch, 50-60', is the route's crux. A shorter 4th class ridge pitch gains the summit.

Descent is by down climbing to the top of the steep pitch, where rappel slings wait in a great position. Then retrace your steps across the level ridge to the col.


The North Ridge is the obvious righthand skyline as seen from low or high camp in Boston Basin.


Other than the sole rappel sling, there is no fixed gear or anchors on this route. A light alpine rack should suffice.

Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Three can barely fit on the tiny summit of the Aig...
Three can barely fit on the tiny summit of the Aig...

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By BGardner
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 27, 2014

Fun little route. A bit of loose rock but it is cleaning up.

I know in these times of sticky rubber and higher climbing standards the line between 4th class and easy 5th is very blurry. That said, I'd have to call the final pitch 5.5. Your definitely pulling a few moves in there.

For decent we were able to rappel off the ridge back into Boston Basin. One 60 meter rope just got us to the nice ledge. We were able to squeeze behind the one remaining snow chunk and then walk easy ground back to the packs. It was mid-August so earlier in the season you'd most likely need to cross some steep snow.

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