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North Ridge 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: probably long ago: 40's or 50's?
Season: warm and dry is nice
Page Views: 950
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jul 1, 2009

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Anyone lose a hex? Found on the N. Ridge of the D...


If started by the bottom, near the trail, then a short scramble or easy broken rock leads to a steep, short headwall. Some loose rock here. Climb up this low angle fin to the top, which, is just below the NW face of the Talk Wall and ends at that point. The traverse over to the North Ridge proper should probably be belayed using the large pine tree up slope and take care with the initial step up onto the slick short ramp that leads over to the crest of the ridge. 200 foot (60 meter) pitch.

The steep, main section of the North Ridge climbs either on the arete, or, slightly left onto the East Face. Fun, steep, but, don't pass up any opportunities for protection. Some loose rock. At the end, either stay on the arete or climb up the neat slot corner. Above this the ridge goes low angle and more broken. 150+ feet.

Note: the arete forming the North Ridge is the left skyline of the Talk Buttress.

Continue up the ridge, finding easy ground and some solid rock. Aim for the large pine tree at the top of the ridge, where the North Ridge fin of rock sort of bends over and blends back into the Dead Snag formation. Take care with loose rock. 200 feet (60m) pitch.

Traverse over and note the top of Steort's Ridge. Down climb/traverse back to this location for the standard get off. Some exposure and loose rock.


Route is located to the North of the North Dihedrals, past the gully that separates these rock fins. Can be started very near the trail on a lower angle fin of rock that comes out between the approach to the Talk Wall, and, the gully that separates the North Ridge from the North Dihedrals of the Dead Snag proper.

Start either by climbing up the lower angle ridge near the trail (steep short start) or up gully to the left (towards the North Dihedrals).

Traverse over and down climb to the standard descent for the Dead Snag (ie, Jig's Up, Steort's, etc).

Note: this route is highlighted in the '79 Gottman "Wasatch Quartzite" guidebook and is described verbally (only) in the Ruckman guidebook.


Standard rack which should include 00 TCU's and up to #3 Camalot (or equivalent). Set of small, medium and large stoppers will prove useful too. Long slings to keep rope drag to a minimum on these long pitchs.

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By John Steiger
Jul 12, 2016

This is well worth doing, but I think the better start is what I've called the Direct North Ridge (posted on the Talk Buttress page, which is where both the North Ridge as shown in the Gottman guide and DNR actually start; BTW, North Ridge is not on Dead Snag – you admin types (e.g., grk) might want to move this description between Over Easy and DNR). Rather than descending by down climbing to the Steorts' Ridge descent as Brian describes, the better route IMO is to continue on the ridge for a few hundred feet (a few moves of 5th class) to a saddle-like notch with a huge downed pine tree pointing the way down an oak filled gully. A rough trail straight down the gully puts you on the better trail just below Glass Ocean. There's also an obvious rappel point (to the east) maybe a hundred feet before the oak filled gully -- not sure where it goes.

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