REI Community
Feather Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Feather Couloir (North Couloir) 
North Ridge T 
Northeast Face T 
Southeast Slope T 

North Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Chris Owen and Fred Batliner July 1992
Season: Late Spring to Fall
Page Views: 1,607
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Aug 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Schematic - North Ridge of Feather Peak


To my knowledge this spectacular ridge has never been climbed direct.

Start on the west side of the ridge, then cross over to the east side and negotiate an awkward chimney. Airy ridge climbing leads to Tower 1 pass this on the east. Stay on the east to Tower 2, to a tricky spot passing under several overhanging blocks and descending into the gully between 2 and 3. Then pass around the buttress which forms Tower 3. Once past 3 climb up the loose gully to the notch to the right of the small tower (3.5) between 3 and 4. Go down and cross under 3.5 (sand or seasonal snow), and head up to the buttress of Tower 4, a ledge leads across this to an easy gully up to the gap just before the main summit block (top of Feather Couloir). A 5.4 pitch leads up the headwall to the summit.

About 6 hours.


Start at the Col north of the ridge.


Small passive rack.

Comments on North Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 27, 2009

Would have had pictures but left the camera on the back side of Tower 4, it's probably still there.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 14, 2014

Ooooh, ouch about the camera. Done stuff like that myself. Dropped my approach shoes from 4 pitches up in New Hampshire once, had to walk out....oh, never mind, we all know about this stuff.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 8, 2015

Direct in this case would mean taking every tower head on and climbing it all the way to the summit of Feather Peak. Fred and I skirted each one around its base.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About