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North Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,925
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 12, 2007

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"North Ridge". Photo by Blitzo.

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Description 

On the far left of the west side, climb an easy arete/ridge to the summit.

Mostly class 4 scrambling with a few technical sections at the start and near the top of pitch 1. Seemed a bit stiff for 5.6. The final ridge traverse is cool but no harder than class 4.

Protection 

Pro to 3".

From the top anchor one can (having long enough rope) rappel to any anchor and TR any Upper Spire route.

Usually descended in two raps, one from summit to a huge ledge, and another from there to the ground next to the west face. Both rap stations are bolted.


Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just another day in paradise
Just another day in paradise
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting over the first lip to rappel down is a bit...
Getting over the first lip to rappel down is a bit...
Rock Climbing Photo: It gets windy at the top - build 'saddlebags' out ...
BETA PHOTO: It gets windy at the top - build 'saddlebags' out ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ridge to the top out! North ridge route
Ridge to the top out! North ridge route
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top.  Cold belay...
Looking down from the top. Cold belay...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jenna rappelling off the Upper Spire after doing t...
Jenna rappelling off the Upper Spire after doing t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jenna climbing up the easy 4th class after the 5.6...
Jenna climbing up the easy 4th class after the 5.6...

Comments on North Ridge Add Comment
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By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

Swell!
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Mostly class 4 scrambling with a few technical sections at the start and near the top of pitch 1. Seemed a bit stiff for 5.6. The final ridge traverse is cool but no harder than class 4.
By Pavel Burov
Oct 16, 2013

An easy free solo way to the top. From the top anchor one can (having long enough rope) rappel to any anchor and TR any Upper Spire route.
By Lana dude
Oct 27, 2013

Can get to ground in 1 rap (barely) with 70m rope. Cool summit
By NorCalNomad
From: San Francisco
May 25, 2016

Not at all stiff for 5.6.