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BETA PHOTO: The first summit is on the right - summit plateau ...
This is an excellent long and exposed ridge traverse with spectacular views.
Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau.
Hike up to "Hurd Col" from Margaret Lake. The ridge to the first summit starts here. Descent
Down climb or rappel the Class 3 face back into the notch, the North Gully
descends from the notch and makes a very quick way off. Ice-axe may be required (seasonal).
Solo - or light rope and rack. Approach shoes suffice.