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Trapezoid Peak
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North Ridge T 
Northwest Slab T 

North Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4000'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Sierra Club party - August 1939
Season: Early - Mid - Late Season
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Apr 14, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The first summit is on the right - summit plateau ...



This is an excellent long and exposed ridge traverse with spectacular views.

Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau.


Hike up to "Hurd Col" from Margaret Lake. The ridge to the first summit starts here.

Down climb or rappel the Class 3 face back into the notch, the North Gully descends from the notch and makes a very quick way off. Ice-axe may be required (seasonal).


Solo - or light rope and rack. Approach shoes suffice.

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