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The Sentinel
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North Ridge T 

North Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Self drawn topo of North Ridge climb (rough and no...

Description 

Pitch 1: Begin on an open book at the north end of The Sentinel (west face). First 15 feet or so are difficult to protect but go at about 5.5. Continue through the offwidth section (5.6) and place a #4 Camalot. Continue up and right through some bushes through easy 5th class and trend right to a tree with some webbing wrapped around it. Belay here.

Pitch 2: Continue up from the tree, trending slightly left. Pass through some loose rock (can be difficult to protect) through some 5.5 or 5.6 climbing, placing pro where you can. Continue up through the offwidth (need #5 cam to protect) to a ledge, and then right to another ledge. Belay here (can use cordelette off rocks for anchor).

Pitch 3: Continue up easy 5th class to the summit. Could do the climb in two pitches with a 50m rope, but rope drag may be nasty.

Protection 

Gear: Single set #.4-#5 Camalot

Anchors: Can use webbing/ cordlette around summit boulders

Descent: Walk of the south end of the formation (exposed 4th class), or rappel down Lost Ledge route (south end) with two 60m ropes. There was some new webbing with rap rings already placed when I climbed it (9/2005).


Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of the start pitch (North Ridge)
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the start pitch (North Ridge)

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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 21, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Most of the P2 climbing seems directly above the belay tree. If climbing with a party larger than two, the looseness early in P2 is all the more worrisome. Still, I think this is a route worth repeating.

For ending P2, we belayed immediately above the OW crack on a large ledge.

A beginning 5.7 leader will appreciate having a couple 5 inch cams.

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