|Original:||YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Oct 30, 2001|
|Comments on North Ridge||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
|A nice route that is far longer than one would suspect. There are cruxes much harder than 5.0 if you don't climb way down and left at the breaks in the ridge. I did some 5.6 or harder going between the various rocks, but some of this could have been avoided by climbing down and back up a ways.|
By Long Ranger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 1, 2016
This route will take longer than you may first think, as it's much harder than the 5.0 rating would have you suppose in many areas.
I particularly had quite a time crossing the gap of the second to last "tooth". Finding a way to traverse over the gap (how far down to downclimb), while also having OK-enough holds to use afterwards was particularly thrilling with great movement. Bring some, I dunno, stemming/chimney skills to Jaws, or just reconcile yourself to downclimbing the gaps to the next piece to the south, or skipping sections to the north.
After bridging the gap, the climbing reminded me of the third piece of the 4th, with mucho amounts of lichen and holds that seemed to have all but disappeared. If it wasn't for the lichen, that in itself would be an interesting position to be in, but it's less than ideal if you can't trust you feet.
Terror Summit is all be required to tick this, IMHO.