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North Ridge 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Oct 30, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Top bit.

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  • Description 

    Start at the ridge at the bottom of the canyon and follow it as it climbs / traverses left (South) 800 feet.

    To negotiate the gaps on the ridge, you may have to downclimb to the middle of the face in certain places.

    The summit of the ridge is not the tallest rock in the area. Roach suggests downclimbing the summit to the Northwest and climbing a 100 foot rock that sits West of the Jaws summit. This rock in the highest point of the Western Ironing Board.


    Standard Flatiron rack.

    Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jaws.
    BETA PHOTO: Jaws.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Warren Teissier negotiating one of the many ridge ...
    Warren Teissier negotiating one of the many ridge ...

    Comments on North Ridge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jan 27, 2013
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

    A nice route that is far longer than one would suspect. There are cruxes much harder than 5.0 if you don't climb way down and left at the breaks in the ridge. I did some 5.6 or harder going between the various rocks, but some of this could have been avoided by climbing down and back up a ways.
    By Long Ranger
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Sep 1, 2016

    This route will take longer than you may first think, as it's much harder than the 5.0 rating would have you suppose in many areas.

    I particularly had quite a time crossing the gap of the second to last "tooth". Finding a way to traverse over the gap (how far down to downclimb), while also having OK-enough holds to use afterwards was particularly thrilling with great movement. Bring some, I dunno, stemming/chimney skills to Jaws, or just reconcile yourself to downclimbing the gaps to the next piece to the south, or skipping sections to the north.

    After bridging the gap, the climbing reminded me of the third piece of the 4th, with mucho amounts of lichen and holds that seemed to have all but disappeared. If it wasn't for the lichen, that in itself would be an interesting position to be in, but it's less than ideal if you can't trust you feet.

    Terror Summit is all be required to tick this, IMHO.

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