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North Pillar Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Mitch Musci, J Whorton, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,340
Submitted By: Mitch Musci on Sep 7, 2005

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J Whorton climbs through the dihedral system on pi...

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Begin in a prominent gully that splits the left side of the north face. Scramble up the gully until it turns to 5th class. Step right on to a grassy ledge with a nice crack for an anchor.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 140 feet) zig-zag up the face above, trending slightly to the right. Traverse right under a roof, then head straight up a left facing corner to find another nice belay ledge with a splitter hand crack for an anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.7 R, 140 feet) jam the nice hand crack straight off the belay for 40 are now on the North Pillar. Continue up the pillar with occasional protection while passing a few bulges. Belay on the left side of the pillar beneath a steep, left facing dihedral system.

Pitch 3: (5.8, 80 feet) climb up into the dihedral system and pass through two roofs (crux) with good protection. Climb a blank slab and belay at the base of a large step in the ridge on the left.

Pitch 4: (5.7, 100 feet) Ascend the step with nice face holds and a crack, then continue on easier terrain to the false summit. 4th class scrambling finds the true summit.

Descent - to return to the base of the route, head west along the west ridge passing 2-3 towers on the right until it is possible to drop down a steep gully to the right (north). The further west you go along the ridge, the easier the descent will be. Once you exit the descent gully, veer right (east) and meander back to the base.


Standard alpine rack to 3 inches. Doubles of 1-3 inches can be useful for the hand crack belay.

Photos of North Pillar Left Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the Direct North Pillar on the right (r...
This shows the Direct North Pillar on the right (r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mitch follows the nice hand crack on pitch 2. Phot...
Mitch follows the nice hand crack on pitch 2. Phot...

Comments on North Pillar Left Add Comment
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By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Sep 10, 2007

Anyone have a breakdown on the pitch ratings?
By Mitch Musci
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 7, 2012

Please see above.

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