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North of Heaven 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1. Pull up onto some broken terrain in an open book of sorts, locate a fixed pin and climb up to the bolt. From the 1st bolt make a weird mantel and cruise up to the bolt line staying to the left. A few cam placements augment the space in between the bolts. A hard move onto a a stance brings you the last roof, climb up and left passing a pin the angle right passing another pin to the belay. Steep and kind of intimidating. 5.9

P2. From the belay traverse out right towards the arête clipping a fixed pin. From the fixed pin climb up slotting a big cam (#3 camalot is nice). Make an airy traverse over the lip of the roof on good feet to clip the 1st bolt. Slab your way up a highly featured slab to a big ledge and belay. 5.8+

P3. Traverse out right from the belay to the first black streak. Clip a fixed pin and pull onto the slab. Pad your way up super fun slab to a cool corner that eats up gear. Pull up and over the steep-ish corner and climb slightly left to find another fixed pin and mantle to the belay. 5.8

It is possible to continue up to the last pitch of 6 Ways from Sunday for one more pitch. 5.11-

Location 

Start below the obvious ?black streak? to the right of The 7th Way start.
(see topo)
Rap the route

Protection 

(1) #3 camalot, (1) .75 camalot and a set of TCU’s should suffice. QD’s and a few shoulder slings. 70M rope



Photos of North of Heaven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David high on Pitch 3.
David high on Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: David A starting up Pitch 2. Bomber #3 placement i...
David A starting up Pitch 2. Bomber #3 placement i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at David A leading Pitch 2. It's steepe...
Looking up at David A leading Pitch 2. It's steepe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at David A leading Pitch 1. After this ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at David A leading Pitch 1. After this ...

Comments on North of Heaven Add Comment
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By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 19, 2017

A note re pitch 2. The Granite Guide shows 6 bolts above the pin. There appear to only be 4. It looks like you can either climb runout slab left to the chains, or follow cracks right along the arête and get gear. The belay is also shown as a gear belay under the pitch 3 black water streak, and the description has a pin just above the belay. It appears there has been significant rock fall at this belay as there are no decent gear placements and the pin is no longer. Belay options are to traverse well down and left to the rap station or move right and up and use small cams to back up a pin that is described for the start/belay of Guardian Angel.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 9, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I can confirm that there are only 4 bolts on P2. While the climbing is pretty moderate the section above the last bolt is a bit runout, I fiddled in a micro nut on the way to the ledge for piece of mind.
There has been some carnage around the top of P2 / start of P3 and several large blocks went down (along with the pin I imagine). I traversed left and down on the ledge to the bolted anchor as the gear to the right of the black streak was uninspiring at best. Getting to the 1st bolt of P3 sports 1 move that I'd recommend not blowing as you're already 40' up and right from the belay with no gear (courtesy of the long ledge traverse from the anchor).
The huge flake you have to pull onto after the bolted section of P3 is a bit unnerving and the section above also took a beating, expect serious loose stuff and no gear once you've pulled the roof.

Overall this is a great line though, pitch 1 is absolutely classic and the majority of the rock above is immaculate. Another great TP vision.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jul 9, 2017

"The huge flake you have to pull onto after the bolted section of P3 is a bit unnerving..." To say the least. I don't think I will repeat that pitch.

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