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North of Eden T 

North of Eden 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1600', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Vogel, E.C. Joe, Roy Swafford
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: Brian Prince on Jun 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Nettle topo for North of Eden

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A sweet natural line up the side of North Dome. Would be way more classic if not for all the mandatory bush climbing. 2 crux pitches, both are really good. Infamous for OW, it aint that bad, but do expect some burly chimneys. Refer to nettle topo. I think he overestimated a lot of pitch lengths. Not a single bolt or fixed piece on the route

P1 - 5.10 200' - we took the crack/groove on the left, right might be easier. After this, climb left of the dirty chimney. Easier climbing leads to a nice alcove

P2 - 5.9 200+' - Crack system on the right is what you want. Steep layback to hands to fingers on cool rock. Enter and climb an intimidating chimney with a wild exit move. Continue up to a tree. We broke this pitch up in two, stopping after the chimney on a nice ledge and then did a short one to the tree.

P3 - 5.10+ 150' - Varied climbing in the corner leads to a short OW crux. Belay in a little alcove with a tiny foot rail.

P4 - 5.10+ 180' - Hands lead out of the alcove to the roof. Super unique granite 3-D climbing leads out the roof to a little thin hands crux. easy climbing takes you to a bush ledge belay

P5 - 5.9 150' - Romp up in and around some bushes to a really nice stance/ledge.

P6 - 5.10 150' - Step left to get back in the corner system and layback around a sweet flake feature. Get up to the last good stance, nest some gear and make a tricky move up and left to gain some good holds. Get in some more gear and bust the crux out left. I was able to climb up a bit and get in some pro under a big flake thing to protect my follower. Stop wherever is comfortable.

P7 - 5.9 "bush chimney" 150' - indeed

P8 - 5.9 150' - It for sure looks improbable, but go climb near the only rock that looks anything like some orange knobs. Good gear and holds become available. Pass the big tree on the left and stop wherever comfortable.

P9 - 5.7 200' - topo didn't really make sense to us here. From where we belayed, we traversed straight left on some broken rock and then romped it up to the top.

Approach/Descent 

Approach is a bit funky. Park almost directly under the route in a big pullout on the south side of the road, ~.5 mile from road's end. Hike up to the cliff band and traverse left until you find a weakness. Head up this and traverse right to the base of the route.

Descent. It's kind of like the valley's north dome gully, only longer and with no trail. From the summit, we headed way up to avoid bushes. Ultimately, traverse way east to the gully. We did not encounter any spot worth rapping.

Protection 

Some small nuts were nice for P6. 1 set tiny->fingers. 2 sets to #3. 1 #4,5, & 6. #6 might not be necessary but was definitely nice in a few spots. Same goes for a 2nd #4


Photos of North of Eden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: North of Eden. Better approach might be further to...
BETA PHOTO: North of Eden. Better approach might be further to...
Rock Climbing Photo: laybacking the first 10+
laybacking the first 10+
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch
1st pitch

Comments on North of Eden Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Jun 8, 2016

Nice, Brian! Ive always been interested in this one. Now go do the free version of the Tom Frost South Face route and report back.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Jun 9, 2016

got a topo or anything for that route dude? let's do it! a tall cool one also seems awesome, though I've been told some loose rock make it a death route. north of eden made for a good day. i'd say any route on north dome is worth doing just for the views, freakin incredible.

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