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North Of Disko T 

North Of Disko 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: 16th July 2013 S. Mc Gowan, C. Gibbon, J. Gallwey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Irish-Jane on Jun 15, 2015

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So Steve did all the hard leading. So he looks lik...

Description 

I did not write this. It is unashamedly stolen from my climbing partner Steve's description. See his excellent trip report here supertopo.com/tr/Ive-quit-my-j...

1. 100ft 5.10
Start in an open book corner, with an obvious crack in the left wall and a small overhang at the bottom. Climb this to just below the second roof, where you can traverse left to the arete. Gain this and mantle the ledge, to gain a crack. Use this to traverse back right into another crack, which leads to a belay on a ledge.

2. 150ft 5.6
Traverse left, around the corner from the belay to find a crack. Follow this to a ledge and traverse back right, to directly above the belay. Continue up a series of ledges and blocks to a belay just below a large ledge.

3. 60ft 5.6
Climb up the right hand side of the ledge, past a pair of sunglasses, to a belay on a large block, above and to the right of an offwidth crack, with a corner system above it.

4. 160ft 5.9
Follow the offwidth crack and the corner system above to a ledge. Follow the corner crack above to a belay on some large (and slightly precarious) blocks.

5. 150ft 5.11/12
A bold traverse, out across the wall. Needs a confident approach but has skyhook protection where you need it. Traverse left from the belay until a hard move (crux), which comes just as the footholds run out (Note: Steve who led this pitch is 6'5", he reckoned 5.11. Any shorter and its probably 5.12). This allows you to gain a crack in the face, follow this to a belay below a gully/chimney.

6. 130ft 5.6 Climb the Jenga block chimney, with care for loose rock, until a large ledge is gained.

7. 150ft 5.11+ R
This pitch gives the route its grade. With cleaning the grade may drop, or get harder. Past experience in horticulture may be beneficial! Climb the left side of a large flake, which leads to a crack above. After the crack, traverse left to a short roof at the top of a water worn slab. Delicately gain the roof and climb the crack above to a grassy ledge. Sit down, have a strong drink and relax, it's not over yet but it doesn't get any worse. Follow the crack, slab and corner on the right of the ledge, to another grassy ledge. Traverse left, boldly, under the roof, until it is possible to gain the ledge above and a good thread belay.

Scramble leftward for 100ft until a ramp and corner is reached, that leads to the top.

8. 130ft 5.6
Climb the crumbly ramp, with care, to a ledge. Climb the corner above to the top...enjoy the stunning view and appreciate that there are places in the world as beautiful as this!

Protection 

Standard rack. some hooks and little cams for pitch 5.


Photos of North Of Disko Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: With the 24hr daylight pushes are a bit easier, bu...
With the 24hr daylight pushes are a bit easier, bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just Steve, a skyhook, a nut with a screamer in a ...
Just Steve, a skyhook, a nut with a screamer in a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one. Steve is currently in some nasty crumbl...
Pitch one. Steve is currently in some nasty crumbl...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view worth getting up for! Impossible Wall, in t...
A view worth getting up for! Impossible Wall, in t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Teaser, that's how small north of Disko looks from...
Teaser, that's how small north of Disko looks from...
Rock Climbing Photo: North of Disko
BETA PHOTO: North of Disko

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