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Norman Clyde Peak
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North-Northeast Ridge T 
Twilight Pillar T 

North-Northeast Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Sanders, Bingham - Sept 1958
Season: July - Early October
Page Views: 1,279
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 2, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: NNE Ridge seen from the Clyde Glacier


Hike up the canyon from Finger Lake towards Norman Clyde Peak. Then, before the glacier, slabs to the right to gain the crest of the long NNE ridge running down from the peak.

The route does not follow the ridge directly - this is Firebird Ridge (IV 5.9) a different proposition.

Cross onto the north face where the ridge begins to steepen and take the path of least resistance up this face about 50/200 feet to the right of the main ridge until the crest of the summit ridge is reached. Scramble to the summit.

Descend the route.


Solo - or 9mm rope and light passive rack. Ice-axe useful in early season.

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By 426
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a R

I zagged way out to the right when I soloed this route (from photo).

The line drawn in photo is pretty steep, even overhanging in places. There were a lot of bail slings in that area.

A classic summit, talk to Norm while you are there...
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 2, 2007

When I soloed this route in the 80's I think I went a little to the right of the line, I don't remember any hard bits, but I do remember passing rap slings. Came the same way down and passed a roped team coming up pitch-by-pitch, and rather late.
By Matthew Mosher
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

Go too far towards the true ridge and you'll find yourself finger locking and hipscumming up something which is most certainly 5th class. Stay to the right, halfway between the ridge and the gully to the east, and you'll be on easy but sandy loose ledges. Not too bad if you nail the route finding but can be quite commiting if you mess up. I found it much easier to find the correct route on the way down (thank God).

Not a particularly good route, but a cool summit and rewarding to complete.

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