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North Howser Tower

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All Along the Watchtower T 
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North Howser Tower Rock Climbing 

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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 10, 2006  with updates from MauryB

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North Howser Towers west face is the largest and most remote wall in the Bugaboo's. Standing 3000' tall it has been compared to the Cirque of the Unclimbables and Patagonia. All of the routes on it are serious undertakings requiring maximum commitment to reach the top.

Getting There 

The main approach to North Howser is by the North Shoulder Col which is a long and gruelling ordeal. From the Kain hut and Applebee campground climb the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and descend northwest down the Vowell Glacier until your beneath the north ridge. Continue along the glacier to the North Shoulder Col and descend west into the steep loose gully. A small glacier will be encountered beneath the northwest face which is best to skirt around on the right. Scramble down more scree and glacier traversing to the south until you are below the west face.

There is also another approach from East Creek Basin that is described in the guide. It says to take the ridge west from the bivy site about 100m until it is possible to cut right down a ledge and gully system to a terrace. From here make 3 or 4 double rope rappels to the glacier below. This is not supposed to have fixed anchors and is not well traveled according to the book.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.7 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in North Howser Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Howser Tower:
All Along the Watchtower   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 32 pitches, 3000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Howser Tower

Featured Route For North Howser Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the corner splitter and roof travers...

Eye of Providence 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  North America : Canada : ... : North Howser Tower
The prominent dihedral climber's left of watchtower. Easily mistaken for Watchtower, as the features closely match Watchtower beta and the dihedral also starts at a big bivy ledge. The dihedral is identifiable because it starts with a 5.7 chimney pitch.The climbing is wild, exposed, and navigates between many steep cracks with sections of face climbing. The crux comes up high with a powerful move climbing right out of a roof. The crux is followed by a splitter in the corner and a roof traver...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on North Howser Tower Add Comment
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By Tortilla
From: Fakeville, USA
Nov 24, 2006
The anchors are bolted. Much easier and safer than going down the glacier to the north.
By gregybn
Feb 18, 2008
I worked with Ward Robinson in the early 90's... by then, he had opted out of this kind of way-radical climbing in favor of his marriage and raising his family...but in his best days, he was a very modest and generally unrecognized Canadian climber of amazing talent and ability.
This route was one of his best.

A tale of bivy near the summit of NHT... my girlfriend and I were once coming down from a climb on SnowPatch and met a couple young bucks who had summited the West face and spent a VERY wild night on the summit - complete with multiple lightning hits.
They were burned and bedraggled... and lucky to be breathing.
The summit bivy was probably the crux of that climb???

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