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North Gully T 

North Gully 

WI2+

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 250'
Original: WI2+ [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: December - March
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Preston Rhea on Jan 10, 2014

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Fitz Fitzpatrick nearing the crux of P2!!

Description 

A fantastic route right next to Horsetail Falls that offers fun stepped ice climbing for a couple of short pitches. In heavy snowfall years, this climb can be completely covered and offers no real ice climbing. The ice is usually much better quality than neighboring Horsetail Falls because of a much smaller water flow.

Some years the top does not form completely and a short and easy mixed step (M1-2) will lead to the top.

Location 

The North Gully is the first climb you come upon on the normal approaches to Horsetail Falls.

To descend, there are a couple options. Along the route there are a couple rap stations: a flake 20' below the top, a small group of trees just after the first steep ice step. Bring webbing to back up the stations and probably two 60m ropes. A single 70m may be able to descend with a bit of work. The other options would be to top out and walk over to the various bolts on top of Horsetail Falls and rappel those lines (it also requires two 60m ropes to reach the bottom). Finally, there is always the option to walk off to climber's right or left depending on if you are going to climb Horsetail Falls after or are just heading back to the car.

Protection 

A rack of ice screws. If the top is not in great condition, a set of nuts may prove useful.


Photos of North Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fitz Fitzpatrick at the top of P1 !!!
Fitz Fitzpatrick at the top of P1 !!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Da Rap!!!
Da Rap!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Fitzy Fitzpatrick rapping from the top of pitch on...
Fitzy Fitzpatrick rapping from the top of pitch on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up the second ice step.
Leading up the second ice step.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the first ice step.
Looking down the first ice step.
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Gully in a very low snowfall season. 1.1...
The North Gully in a very low snowfall season. 1.1...

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