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North Gateway Rock

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North Gateway Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,035'
Location: 38.87997, -104.88114 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,165
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Nov 30, 1999
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Slabbing away on the west side.

  • 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced MORE INFO >>>
  • 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    While there are a few scary aid lines up the East Face, most of the route development has been on the West and North Faces. The North Face has some difficult free lines including Anaconda (5.11), a Kor aid line freed, I believe, by Wiggins and Dunn. The West Face is divided by the obvious Tourist Gully (5.0). To the North of the Tourist Gully are many hard, vertical, and scary routes from one to five pitches, many put up by Webster, Coyne, Dunn, Wiggins, D'Antonio and others in the '70s and '80s (no offense intended to other first ascenders active during this time period). South of the Tourist Gully is a less-than vertical slab called the Finger Face for the namesake finger-shaped flake. Many classic soft sandstone moderates, generally well protected, are found in this area, including Finger Ramp (5.7), Lower and Upper Finger Traverse (5.8), and Son of Tidrick's (5.9). Protection on these climbs is generally composed of old, but solid drilled angles. Pull down, not out!

    Getting There 

    This is the largest formation in the Garden, it is easily visible on the right as you drive in from the East.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 5.8 miles from here

    36 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in North Gateway Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Gateway Rock:
    Cowboy Boot Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   West Face
    Finger Ramp   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Southwest Face / Finger Fac...
    Snuggles to Fall Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   East Face
    Trigger Finger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   West Face
    Chatters   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Southwest Face / Finger Fac...
    Borgoff's Blunder   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   West Face
    Lower Finger Direct   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Southwest Face / Finger Fac...
    No Ethics Required   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Southwest Face / Finger Fac...
    Rainbow Bridge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   West Face
    Pete & Bob's   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   West Face
    Men at Work   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   West Face
    Anaconda   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   North Face / North End
    The Zipper   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13     Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'   West Face
    Grapefruit Dance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   West Face
    Triple Exposure   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C1     Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches   North Face / North End
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Gateway Rock

    Featured Route For North Gateway Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Russell redpointing Grapefruit Dance (photo: ...

    Grapefruit Dance 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Colorado : Colorado Springs : ... : West Face
    Grapefruit Dance is a short, gymnastic, overhanging sport route, one of the few in Garden of the Gods. It is located on the northern end of the west face of North Gateway Rock, just uphill from the Blowouts bouldering area. To reach it, simply approach the bulging overhang on the north end of the west face. Walk along the cliff-line to the most overhanging sport, where you'll find the Blowouts, identifiable by lots of chalk next to a cave. Walk uphill maybe 100 feet. Grapefruit Dance is als...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of North Gateway Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The West Face of North Gateway Rock, showing a han...
    BETA PHOTO: The West Face of North Gateway Rock, showing a han...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Tourist Gully.
    Looking down Tourist Gully.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck Grossman indigently climbing back up Amazing...
    Chuck Grossman indigently climbing back up Amazing...
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo: A bit crowded in the Tourist Gully.
    A bit crowded in the Tourist Gully.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Kissing Camels, bathed in the afternoon's last...
    The Kissing Camels, bathed in the afternoon's last...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The three towers of North Gateway Rock.
    The three towers of North Gateway Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Face including Tower of Babylon.
    Northwest Face including Tower of Babylon.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Northeast Face.
    Northeast Face.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck is sad
    Chuck is sad
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dropping down into the Hidden Valley on north side...
    Dropping down into the Hidden Valley on north side...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On top of North Gateway looking towards the south....
    On top of North Gateway looking towards the south....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up toward the Kissing Camels towards the t...
    Looking up toward the Kissing Camels towards the t...

    Comments on North Gateway Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Apr 18, 2002
    I climbed a nice 5.8 crack several years ago on the east face of North Gateway Rock. This crack is located just right of the metal sign that is bolted on the rock. The anchor consists of two old bolts and rotten webbing. The crux of the route consisted of answering the infamous question, "how did you get the rope get up there?". Yes, you will be video taped by tourists while climbing here.
    By Jon Cannon
    Dec 2, 2003
    Does anyone know the name of the route which goes up from the chains at the top of Finger Ramp to the chains at the top of Son of Tedrick's? It follows the same line as Finger Ramp past three bolts and then traverses about fifteen feet to the Tedrick's anchor.
    By Matt Juth
    From: Evergreen
    Jun 23, 2004
    Hey Springs climbers.

    I heard rumors that Pete and Bob's fell apart? Has anyone climbed it recently? I just don't see what part would have collapsed, and I haven't done that route in five years.
    By Matt DeCoste
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Apr 23, 2007
    Yesterday me and two buddies went to the top of Tourist Gully on North Gateway and kept heading north on top and popped out on top of North Gateway for a few pics and the view. Then we kept moving north in the little channel on top of North Gateway and it drops down into a hidden valley area that sort of overlooks the main parking lot. I have done this once before but can't seem to remember the name or the grade of the 1 pitch rappel-in/climb out route to access it.

    I seem to remember someone calling it the "hidden valley" or "hidden garden" or something like that. Anyone dropped in there or know what I am talking about? I would put the climb out route at probably 5.8+. The fire department does this route and then rappel off the east side of North Gateway when they practice for rescue.
    By Stich
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Jun 13, 2008
    We were told not to climb on the East side of N. Gateway rock yesterday, due to falcon closures. However, I can't find any closures posted on the GOG website nor were there any posted on the wooden fence or elsewhere. Anyone know the scoop?
    By Stewart M. Green
    Jun 17, 2008
    The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
    By Patrick Manitou
    From: Atlanta, GAAAAA
    Dec 22, 2008
    Anybody know the route that starts about twenty feet to the left of Amazing Grace? It starts in a cave-thing and then traverses left for quite a while. It's got old-ish looking drilled pins, and is well-protected except the first pin is a good twenty feet off the deck. I've got four different guides and it's not in any of them. Seems pretty cool, and I'd never noticed it before, so maybe it's new?

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