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Shark's Nose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Direct Northwest buttress T 
Direct Southwest Face T 
North Face T 
NW Buttress T 
South Tower Summit  T 
West Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 650', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Kelsey & David Loeks, 1974
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Chris Walden on Aug 19, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch begins just below where the pictur...


This route follows the distinct line up the right side of the north face from the col between Overhanging Tower and Shark's Nose. We found the climbing on Shark's Nose as good as any in the Cirque and followed the beta from the Bechtel guide book.

There are two options for descending off the North/South Shark Nose summits. From the North Summit follow the rap stations back down the NW Buttress (Thoroughfare route) approximately 5 of them. From the South Summit follow the obvious 4 raps south towards Block Tower. Both descents/raps can be done with a 60m rope.


The route starts at the notch between Overhanging Tower and Shark's Nose. From the notch move up a finger crack to a small ledge then work right and up to more ledges. Once you reach an obvious huge ledge after about 3 pitches you can join up with the NW Buttress 5.6 route to the summit.


Single alpine rack is sufficient to #3 (although we had doubles .4-#1)

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