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Holy Cross Couloir 
North Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c AI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c AI3 [details]
FA: Larry Coats & Ross Hardwick (1979)
Season: late summer/fall
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Aug 3, 2016

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The first ascent party with friends on the summit ...

Description 

Here's a golden oldie from way back in the day, but I don't find an account on MP or Summitpost, so here you go.

The route climbs the obvious couloir that splits the north face of Holy Cross, between the Angelica Couloir and Cross Couloir. The route was climbed in early fall (September) on alpine ice and rock and includes a long chimney pitch where the couloir funnels down mid-face (5.8). The exit we used was the highest, right-trending ramp that provided the steepest ice on the route. This ramp exits onto the summit ridge just below the top of the peak.

Protection 

A small (single-set) rock rack plus a half-dozen ice screws provided excellent protection.


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry Coats leading the final ramp pitch (65 degre...
Larry Coats leading the final ramp pitch (65 degre...
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry Coats on alpine ice above the chimney pitch.
Larry Coats on alpine ice above the chimney pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross Hardwick leading the chimney pitch on the fir...
Ross Hardwick leading the chimney pitch on the fir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Magazine Basecamp account of first ascent...
Climbing Magazine Basecamp account of first ascent...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photodiagram of the North Face of Holy Cross Mount...
BETA PHOTO: Photodiagram of the North Face of Holy Cross Mount...

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2016

Holy Nordwand! Nice addition, Larry.

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