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North Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brandon Chalk & Mike Santoro
New Route: Yes
Season: Year-round
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Brandon Chalk on Oct 6, 2014

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Mike Santoro on easier ground on the North Face ab...

Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun, albeit harder, adventurous alternative to the summit of the Wolcott Spire.

A good nut can protect the lower 15' bouldery face climb start (5.9+/5.10a) to the ledge/undercling 20' off the ground. Get good pro (cams) in the cracks under the roof/undercling, and traverse right to the obvious weakness in the north face. Two cam placements and a few 5.9 overhang moves will put you onto the last 15' of the original Corkscrew Route to the summit. Be careful what you pull on and check every hold. There are some loose blocks/holds in the 5.9 crack on the upper face.

The descent is via a rappel down the north face.

Protection 

A few nuts, slings, & 4-5 cams in the 0.5" to 3" range


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Santoro pulling the 5.9 roof move(s) on the N...
Mike Santoro pulling the 5.9 roof move(s) on the N...
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower slab portion of the North Face route may...
BETA PHOTO: The lower slab portion of the North Face route may...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Santoro traversing right at the roof/undercli...
Mike Santoro traversing right at the roof/undercli...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face route (5.9+/5.10a) of the Wolcott Spire...
BETA PHOTO: North Face route (5.9+/5.10a) of the Wolcott Spire...

Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By Brandon Chalk
Oct 6, 2014

I led the North Face route with Mike Santoro belaying me on May 4, 2014. We believe this to be a FA of the North Face, but again, nothing is for certain in this day & age. Mike then top-roped the North Face as I did after him. Good fun.

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