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North Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Crain, Gordon, McGowan & Miller 1954
Page Views: 1,737
Submitted By: Matt Mardigan on Jun 3, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Kangaroo Temple, North Face

Description 

P1- Start by moving climbers left up an angled crack, then through broken rock over multiple ledges. Pass a fixed piton, and end at about the 3rd ledge, with bolted rap anchors. In getting to the final ledge, take either the left or right crack. Use long slings to reduce rope drag.

P2- A very short pitch traversing ledges. Traverse a ledge / large boulder to climbers right. End at a shoulder-height block in front of a blind airy corner. Gear anchor.

P3- Begin with a fun step around a blind corner (exposed). You may protect this with a cam in a crack near the floor. There is a step-down move at the end of the ledge that people seem to have difficulty with. There is also a somewhat flared crack leading to the belay tree that can be difficult.

P4- You can choose to scramble directly to the summit block or move climber's left up a large flake/crack for another short pitch to the summit block. from here, it is a short scramble to the summit.

Descent- Rap from chains atop the North Face and from chains at P1 belay.
A total of 3 single rope raps (60-m ropes) will get you to where you started.

Location 

Park at the hairpin turnout on WA20. From there, walk south through the boulder field looking for a climber's trail leading into the woods. Follow the trail through more forest and boulder fields until you reach Kangaroo Pass. The trail through the boulder fields is faint and sometimes cairned; do your best to approach the pass and pick the trail up again when it reappears. The trail is very well defined once you start rapidly gaining elevation up the pass. Travel time to the pass ~1hr.
From the pass, traverse left on another sometimes there, sometimes not trail. Eventually the trail will take you to a gully leading up to the notch between Kangaroo Temple and Little Finger. Go up for the North Face.

Protection 

A standard rack to 3". A 60-m rope is sufficient.


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: rapping down the North Face
rapping down the North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Kangaroo Temple taken from the approach
BETA PHOTO: Kangaroo Temple taken from the approach
Rock Climbing Photo: nearing the summit ridge on the optional P4
nearing the summit ridge on the optional P4
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 belay
P1 belay

Comments on North Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Diana Y
Jun 7, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Routefinding can be challenging, especially the way the route is pitched out as written here and in most other reports.

P1: Be cautious of rope drag as it can be immense. Bring doubles / triples. Pass a fixed piton, and end at (what seems like) the 3rd ledge, with bolted rap anchors.

P2: Ridiculously short. Traverse a ledge / large boulder. End at a shoulder-height block in front of a blind airy corner. Gear anchor.

P3: Turn the corner and traverse an airy ledge. There is a step-down move at the end of the ledge that people seem to have difficulty with. There is also a somewhat flared crack leading to the belay tree that folks seem to find difficult.

P4: Optional crack - I didn't try this. We scrambled up sandy benches to the summit.

Three single rope raps (60m ropes) will get you to where you started.


[Note - this description was used to update the original entry.]
By Matt Mardigan
From: Seattle
May 14, 2017

the page has been edited to reflect the previous comments.
By Diana Y
Aug 2, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I attempted to climb the face instead of the traditional P1 ramp. I intended to make small zigzags up to the P1 bolted anchor. I ended up trending right following easy climbing with sparse pro and hard left to a tree midway on the P2 ledge with a 70m rope. While this technically works, I would not recommend it due to the poor pro options.

Made one single rope rap and a one double this go around. The double was a bit of a mess -- would still recommend making three singles as there are rap stations for it.

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