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North Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Aug 18, 2013

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  • Description 

    This is the only Goofy route listed in "5.10" and "High Over Boulder." Ament states that this is an old route, possibly done in the '60s. Today, it may seem harder than Ament's rating of 5.5. In 1972, I led up the obvious chimney, then, near its top, diagonaled left, over an overhang and up a short left-slanting crack, to the actual summit. This made the finish more difficult (5.8?) and interesting than continuing up and rightish, to the top of the ugly chimney.

    Location 

    This is on the north face.

    Protection 

    SR?


    Comments on North Face Add Comment
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    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 29, 2014
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Not as good a route as the East Face route but OK as a toprope. After trying a direct vertical start up the face with much lichen and minimal feet, which felt at least 5.11, we climbed up the chossy inset just right of the face (5.5?) then traversed left onto the face like George mentioned. Decent climbing up from there (5.7 or higher, depending on where you traverse out onto the face).

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