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North Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Late May - Aug
Page Views: 248
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


A short two-pitch route up the awesome Plunger pinnacle. Climb moderate snow and cross a bergschrund to access the base of the rock. Many possible starts are available, I will describe the obvious one we took.

P1) 5.6-5.7, ~80'. Up a low-angle left-facing dihedral to a belay in a notch from boulders with fixed rappel slings.

P2) 5.10a, 50'. Scramble over boulders and down slightly, traversing around to the left (north)side of the summit block on a small foot-ledge. Climb up a handcrack on a near-vertical wall to the summit. Belay from gear at the summit, or downclimb 10' of easy 5th class on the south side of the summit to the sling/rappel anchor. This pitch could also be easily aided/French-freed at C1.


An obvious left-facing dihedral on the west face of the Plunger marks the first pitch. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed rappel slings.


Standard rack to 3".

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By Gunkswest
May 13, 2015

The Plunger might also be named "Fish Tail Spire," which is described as being immediately south of the southeast face of The Throne.

The 1997 AAJ lists a new route being done on the formation by Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer on July 7 1996 (70 meters, 5.6 A2 or 5.10a), which is likely known as the North Face Route.

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