REI Community
Sundance Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
North Face T 
Northeast Arete T 
Right Crack T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c C1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 5 pitches, 550', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c C1 PG13 [details]
FA: Tipton-Hartman
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: matt j hartman on Aug 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jake on the last pitch

Description 

This route seems to be a first. We saw bail tat on top of P1, which is the only pitch that seems very probable once you get up there. This route could go free at a hard grade and (with some cleaning of lichen) would make a proud, if short, free route in the area that is right next to the trail.
p1-5.9 climb the corner, passing loose blocks on the right to a stance with some old tat.
p2-5.11a climb up and right on cracks and around a corner to slightly under-protected 5.10, then left up seam corner to right traverse 5.11 a-b to a ledge. Belay with hand size pieces.
p3-5.11a-b climb seam to right which protects to crux (which doesn't protect very well), moving right to ledge with hard moves.
p-4 5.10 or 5.11, C1 head up good crack for 20 feet, move right on tiny gear to a corner and aid. Move past corner to ledge. This pitch is likely 5.12 and with cleaning would be overhanging fingers and face holds with good pro.
p-5 5.10 or C1 move up flaring corner to summit.
Walk off.

Location 

See photo.

Protection 

Doubles to 4 with lots of small stuff, especially stoppers.
Bring someone tough like my partner Jake to lead the scary pitch 3 (I bailed).


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Line starts on left and moves right to North Face ...
Line starts on left and moves right to North Face ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The prow
The prow

Comments on North Face Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About