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North Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Beckey and Parrott, 1956
Page Views: 2,090
Submitted By: BenCooper on Sep 12, 2009  with updates from Jacob Wolniewicz

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch one's route. Start is right across from ...


Begin from the top of the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. Follow a crack system to a large ledge with some small trees (pitch 1, 5.6). From the ledge, go right on easy terrain then straight up on some hollow and flaky sounding rock. The pitch ends right after what appears to be 10-15 feet of an unprotectable blank wall, but has huge huecos with great holds. (pitch 2, 5.7). From the belay head left up some crack systems (easily takes a #3 cam) then go up two 5.0 slabs and up a bear hug flake just below the summit (pitch 3, 5.6+-5.7ish).

Going right after or during the second pitch will put you on the Tunnel Route (also known as Cave Route on MP). So, stay left after the blank wall with huecos to stay on the North Face route.

This route can stay wet after a rain, and can be icy early and late season. But it's worth the beautiful rock found higher up the tower.

Descend off the two summit bolts going down the route, right below one of pitch 3's 5.0 slabs you'll see two more bolts, rappel off these to the bushy ledge of pitch one, and rappel from here to the base of the climb. Hike out the way you came.


The route begins at the top of the notch between Concord Tower and Liberty Bell. Approach from the west side of WA Pass, via the Blue Lake Trail and climber's trail up the gully.


1 set of cams, 1 set of stoppers, and some slings to reduce drag. One 60-m rope is sufficient.

Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob starting up on pitch two.
Rob starting up on pitch two.

Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Sep 25, 2009

I've descended using a single 50m rope before. It's tight, but it works. From the summit, rap 25' down to the lower of two trees at the notch. Then a full 25m rap to an anchor down the gully and skiers left. The next rap gets you to the terrace and a final rap puts you at the base.
By alpineinertia
From: Seattle, Washington
Jul 7, 2015

There is a set of chain anchors 30 meters below the summit anchor on the south face. One 60 meter rope will get you to the anchors on the best ledge in the area and then one more puts you comfortably on the ground. With rope stretch there is enough length to tie knots in the end of the rope as well for the first rappel.
By Jacob Wolniewicz
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just did this route on 9/24/2016. The route can definitely be wet/icy around this time of season though Beckey Route on Liberty Bell seemed dry (gets more sunshine).

It was done with two 60m 8.1 half ropes, set of nuts, and a rack (.3-3) though you'd be fine with the standard five. Having longer alpine draws helps a lot with rope drag on pitches 2 and 3.

We double rope rappelled off the summit to the bushy ledge skipping the bolts below the 5.0 slabs. It worked with my thin ropes but the friction was a lot and took some work to pull them off. I definitely would recommend single rope rappels with a standard single rope, and to take advantage of the second set of bolts.

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