|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA:||Beckey and Parrott, 1956|
|Submitted By:||BenCooper on Sep 12, 2009 with updates from Jacob Wolniewicz|
|Comments on North Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Las Vegas
Sep 25, 2009
|I've descended using a single 50m rope before. It's tight, but it works. From the summit, rap 25' down to the lower of two trees at the notch. Then a full 25m rap to an anchor down the gully and skiers left. The next rap gets you to the terrace and a final rap puts you at the base.|
From: Seattle, Washington
Jul 7, 2015
|There is a set of chain anchors 30 meters below the summit anchor on the south face. One 60 meter rope will get you to the anchors on the best ledge in the area and then one more puts you comfortably on the ground. With rope stretch there is enough length to tie knots in the end of the rope as well for the first rappel.|
By Jacob Wolniewicz
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just did this route on 9/24/2016. The route can definitely be wet/icy around this time of season though Beckey Route on Liberty Bell seemed dry (gets more sunshine).
It was done with two 60m 8.1 half ropes, set of nuts, and a rack (.3-3) though you'd be fine with the standard five. Having longer alpine draws helps a lot with rope drag on pitches 2 and 3.
We double rope rappelled off the summit to the bushy ledge skipping the bolts below the 5.0 slabs. It worked with my thin ropes but the friction was a lot and took some work to pull them off. I definitely would recommend single rope rappels with a standard single rope, and to take advantage of the second set of bolts.