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North Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: FA Bill Forrest, Don Briggs 1969 FFA Jay Smith
Season: Not when its cold
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Mar 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


I did this route 10 years ago so the quality could be different. This a cool tower with an interesting route up the "North Face". Locate the ledge where the route begins...Pitch one starts with some bouldery moves and then goes left on mostly good rock to an anchor (10). Pitch 2 goes up a cool scoop to a sweet arete slapping boulder problem protected by a good bolt (crux, good pro)...Now for the excitement...Traverse right on a horizontal system and unload a bunch of gear. Scratch and claw up a heinous silty bulge with a crack going through it (11- R, arches-scary). Last pitch wraps its way around to the left passing some fixed junk and joins up with the south route near the top (10). In all its an OK route with a cool bouldery crux...But, it IS a nice tower!!


You guessed where it is...


One set of wires. Double set of cams from .5 - 3.5 Friends. 2 60M ropes (rap). Crux is well protected by modern bolt.

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By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Nov 22, 2010

One set of cams to a #3 camalot with extra tips to fingers sizes, offset aliens and stoppers come in handy for protecting the flaring cracks. Lots of long runners. There is some loose rock, but for the most part it's good Cutler, more Monument Basin than Fisher Towers.
By Travis McClinchey
From: Squamish, BC
Oct 27, 2013

I do not think this route reserves the 'R' rating. I think that 'PG' is more representative of the 11a section described above. Sure, there are several 'R' sections of 5.8 and under, including traverses, but nothing in the 5.11- range.

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