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(b) North Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Grace T 
East Lark T 
El Dorado T 
El Grandote T 
El Monte T 
El Whampo T 
Elegant Arch T 
Grace Slick T 
Hard Lark T 
Northeast Face East T 
Northeast Face West T 
Northeast Farce T 
Partners in Crime T 
Science Friction T 
Too Biased T 
West Lark T 

(b) North Face Rock Climbing 

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Location: 33.76108, -116.68221 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,721
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

76° | 57°

74° | 58°

74° | 58°

73° | 58°

68° | 59°

75° | 59°
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BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview, Idyllwild


This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. It’s best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.

During the summer, this face gets sun much of the day. In the Spring and Summer, it gets a lot of shade.

Getting There 

Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (b) North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (b) North Face:
East Lark   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
West Lark   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
El Whampo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Northeast Face West   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Hard Lark   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Northeast Face East   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
El Grandote   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
Coup de Grace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Elegant Arch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 11 pitches, 1600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (b) North Face

Featured Route For (b) North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: The big dihedral and roof that form the first pitc...

El Grandote 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : (b) North Face
A varied excursion up an obvious line.P1 starts in an obvious right facing dihedral under a large roof. Exit the dihedral left before reaching the roof then move back right in to crack. Finish on a nice belay ledge to the left with a small tree.P2 From the small tree move down the ledge a bit and then up a right to nice right facing flake. Or head up the short right facing corner above the tree with a stuck hex and piton in it and make some dicey slab moves over to the flake on the right. Trend ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of (b) North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does ...
Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does ...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Tahquitz after a late spring snow st...
North Face of Tahquitz after a late spring snow st...
Rock Climbing Photo: After some balancy face moves off the belay, Natha...
After some balancy face moves off the belay, Natha...

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