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North Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ray Northcutt & Layton Kor?, 1950s
Page Views: 2,027
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Nearing the top. The upper half of the route is mu...


This 2 pitch area-classic ascends the narrow North face of Sharksfin. Gillett writes that this is likely the most frequented route in the area.

Find the right crack system just a few feet from the NW arête of Sharksfin. There are harder climbs just to the right on the West face.

P1. Connect cracks on easy terrain to start. As it steepens as you approach the belay, you find a short bit of in-your-face old-school-5.8 terrain as you angle slight left towards the belay ledge.

P2. The second pitch eases in difficulty on jugs up steep rock to the top, 5.6.

Descent: A short jaunt to the South end of the rock leads you to a few anchors (apparently difficult to find for some). A half-rope rap off the SW corner to a large ledge leads to downscrambling under a large boulder and walking terrain.


Wires, single set of cams to 3 1/2".

Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the north face route. If you stay near...
Starting up the north face route. If you stay near...
Rock Climbing Photo: North face of Sharksfin. The North Face route clim...
North face of Sharksfin. The North Face route clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sharksfin in profile from the west.
Sharksfin in profile from the west.
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Sharksfin from the north, with the r...
North Face of Sharksfin from the north, with the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian climbing the route.
Brian climbing the route.

Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was about the most fun I've had climbing in a long time. Beautiful weather--sunny but cool. Alpine setting with views of the Diamond, Hallett, Ypsilon, Lumpy. 190' pitch on a steep face. Mostly moderate with a couple of hard sections. A little spicy in places. Lots of good knobs. Good gear, though sparse at times--mostly nuts. We did this in one pitch with no problem. It looked difficult to rig a belay at the official P1 belay ledge.
By Matt.H Haron
Apr 11, 2011

So, this route was not as fun as I expected. The top has two false summits, and we couldn't find the bolts to rap off of. Although, if you just go to the left and up a little bit from where you top out, you can see a large tree, and behind that is a place where you can shimmy along the wall (it's safe) and from there you can get to the boulderfield thing that leads up to the crags. Also, we never found any trail, so we just cut through the woods and it worked. Finally, I would say there is a fairly long traverse that I was unprepared for with protection here and there, but I skipped most of the places. Definitely bring a helmet as the rock here is quite loose.
By Jeremy Fields
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 17, 2011

This was a fun route and felt a little like a micro version of the Petit Grepon. Instead of going all the say to the south end of the formation to rap off, we found a cable anchor just at the top and climber's right.

Be aware, a 60 meter rope does not get you to the next rap station! A 70 meter rope or doubles would be nice. We got down by rapping to the end of our rope (knots tied in the ends of course) and swinging 5 feet climber's left to a small ledge with a fixed pin. From there we were able to do a belayed traverse 15 to 20 feet again to climber's left to a new bolted cable anchor. From there, a 60 meter rope gets all the way down.
By Matt.H Haron
May 18, 2012

Jeremy: where did you find bolts? My partner and I could not find any... except some bolts to another climb next to it, which at the time looked unsafe.
By Jim Clarke
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 17, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great day in the high alpine, good workout to get to, sun, views and no one else around. A fun tower, easily done in one pitch (bring extra slings and mid-size pieces). Belayed off the cable w/ a backup piece. Worthy outing combined with a few other solid lines in the area.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Jun 12, 2016

As of this last weekend, the rappel off the proper summit (southeast area of the fin) was a rat's nest of slung chickenheads with one of the slings looking semi-recent. It held my partner and I, two strapping young men of maximum 170 lbs. We did see the cable anchor, but having no knowledge of the rap distance or logistics, we opted for the summit rappel, because it was the closest to what the guidebook described for rappelling. So, the rat's nest rappel is not mandatory but is possibly the best option if you decide to go to the true summit.

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