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North Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 280', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Paul Marshall (UK) 16th Oct. 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,786
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 16, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A superb tower one of the best in the desert,and in a magnificent canyon. P1) The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay.
P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2.(5.11b free)
P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2. (5.10d free)

Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.

This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard.NOTE> Pitches 2 and 3 freed by Micheal Ferraro in 2009
Nice area, great views, no people.

Protection 

Only anchor bolts used. Gear... 3 sets of friends up to #4, two #5, one #6. Full set wires.


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route. North Face
BETA PHOTO: The route. North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil Kauffman crushing it through the p2 roof
Neil Kauffman crushing it through the p2 roof
Rock Climbing Photo: From the rim approach, which is actually really me...
From the rim approach, which is actually really me...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Spire from the East
View of the Spire from the East
Rock Climbing Photo: Dreamspeaker Spire from the West . Photo Paul Ross
Dreamspeaker Spire from the West . Photo Paul Ross
Rock Climbing Photo: The Joy of Rapping .The North Face Dreamspeaker Sp...
The Joy of Rapping .The North Face Dreamspeaker Sp...
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent P.Ross On Pitch 2. Dreamspeaker Spire...
First Ascent P.Ross On Pitch 2. Dreamspeaker Spire...
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Ross on Pitch 2. First Ascent North Face of Drea...
P.Ross on Pitch 2. First Ascent North Face of Drea...

Comments on North Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 11, 2004

Great Site. I used to work in this canyon chasing owls about ten years ago. Had to rap down to the creekbed every morning to tag them then climb back to the ridgeline to RT track them at night. Worked all over SE Utah but this was my favorite site.

Alex
By michael ferraro
Sep 29, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C2

I freed the second and third pitches 11-15-08. The second goes at 5.11b and the third goes at 5.10d. Bring a bolt kit to replace rap bolt in a sketchy loose block at the second rap station.
By Lauren DeLaunay
Mar 26, 2017

Climbed 3/25/17. Approached by rapping in from the rim a full 70m and making a relatively easy hike over to the base of the route, negotiating a few small, low-angle slabs. Not nearly as hairy as it looks. Takes about 90 mins-2 hours depending on route finding and pace. Rapped on one 70m from summit to top of p2, then rapped to the base of the route with 2 ropes, 1 70 is not enough. Rap anchors could use chain; we added some cord to both and a biner to the top of p2. Bolts are in good shape. Summit is spectacular!! We hiked back out the way we came in, ascending our fixed line, running from an impending rainstorm. Not horrible, but it would be nice to have a static line if that's your plan. Watch for super loose rock at the top of p1 and start of p2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dreamspeaker in all its glory
The Dreamspeaker in all its glory


Rock Climbing Photo: Neil Kauffman at the roof, p2
Neil Kauffman at the roof, p2


Rock Climbing Photo: The Dreamspeaker from the rim approach
The Dreamspeaker from the rim approach
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 27, 2017

Good One Chaps ...
By Neil Kauffman
Mar 28, 2017

A spire that tower freaks dream about; so slender and so improbable, not for the faint of heart, you know those "Wingate Princess" types. Please be kind to the Crypto in this beautiful area and tread lightly.
Rack beta was right on, Triples to #3 Camalot, double #4, single #5.
By Jared Brown
Apr 21, 2017

We did the approach from the canyon road, and ended up going up the south facing slopes from the side wash SE of the tower to avoid the thick brush on the north facing slope next to the road, then up ramps below the NE side. About 50 feet below the start of the climb, we encountered an 8-10 foot blank cliff, which required a shoulder stand and sketchy loose mantel. Also found an aider at the base of the climb.

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