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North Face Var. Right (Directisimo) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: Chris Keefe on Jul 22, 2012

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Climbers on the second pitch of the Directisimo.

Description 

Begin at the notch between concord tower and liberty bell. Follow a crack system to a large ledge with some small trees (5.6), P1 of the standard N. Face rte. From here, pitch two continues up right to a striking vertical crack. Follow the crack up until the climbing grows strenuous. Traverse up and left across a face, aiming for the huge boulder/chockstone slung with tat. (5.8) Expect rope drag on this long and wandering pitch. The ledge behind the boulder provides an adequate belay station. Climb up and left, following the bolted ramp to the summit (5.easy)

Location 

Begins as for the standard north face route. Rappel is possible down either the north or south faces of concord tower. Single-rope rappels are possible on the north face, but may be uncomfortable. Single rope rappels are strongly recommended on the south face, as ropes tend to stick on the edge.

Protection 

Gear to 3". Many bring a 4" cam. Bolts on P3. Rap chains on summit.
60-70m rope


Photos of North Face Var. Right (Directisimo) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crazy mofo slacklining from lexington to concord. ...
Crazy mofo slacklining from lexington to concord. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the top of the second pitch.
Climber at the top of the second pitch.

Comments on North Face Var. Right (Directisimo) Add Comment
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By Eliza Penick
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 16, 2014

Also named Directismo.
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
Aug 16, 2014

The crux is a small wide bulge at the start of the "real climbing" just above some fixed tat. Rock quality here is poorer than the rest, but after a freaky move or two the rest is great quality fist cracks, easy OW with face holds, and hand cracks to the top. The top of this pitch to the summit is 5.0, not 5.7.
By Jean Spencer
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 26, 2015

I'd bring a #4 or two.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yes to the #4! When I did it, I bumped a tipped-out #3 for the last 20'... less than ideal.

A single 60m rope works if you rap from the summit to the east, then from a tree at the notch down to an uncomfortable spot with a slung constriction, then to the 1st pitch ledge, then to the ground. Ugh.

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