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North Face Tiffany Mountain
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NE Couloir T 
North Tower Ridge Route T 
Tower Arete T 

North Face Tiffany Mountain Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 8,245'
Location: 48.67089, -119.9321 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 652
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: applewood on Jun 9, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: Projected North Face route topos


Tiffany Mtn is the jewel of the Eastern Pasaytens and her NE side has potential for some fine short alpine climbing. It is a beautiful mini alpine zone, and is a great place for a beginning alpine climber to cut their teeth. The 650' tall north face is broken up by several couloirs, arêtes and vertical granite cliffs. The snow melts fairly early in the summer (soon after the roads are accessible), so the sooner the better for the couloirs. The "NE Couloir" route is the longest, most prominent and direct snow chute on the left side of the face. The "North Tower Ridge" route climbs mostly excellent rock up the tower on the right side of the face.

The area is beautiful and secluded feeling, the approach is easy, and the views during the climb and once on top are spectacular.

Getting There 

From Conconully either drive up North Fork Salmon Creek and over Lone Frank Pass (almost an hour on a narrow 4WD road - 21.3 miles) or up the South Fork and over Baldy Pass (almost 2 hours on a longer 2WD gravel road - 30.6 miles), or approach from the Methow Valley (about an hour on a good 2WD gravel road - 26.5 miles). Park at Tiffany Springs campground (6760') and follow the pleasant trail (#373) east past Tiffany Lake to Honeymoon Pass (7150', 45 minutes). From Honeymoon Pass either traverse south on the grassy east slope to the small cirque at the base of the N. Face (7360'), or hike up the trail on the north side of the ridge leading to Little Tiffany Lake and drop down to the small cirque from above.

In the winter/early spring a snowmobile/ski approach would be possible.

Climbing Season

For the Okanogan area.

Weather station 12.0 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For North Face Tiffany Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the start of the 2nd (crux) pitch.

North Tower Ridge Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Washington : Okanogan : ... : North Face Tiffany Mountain
North Tower Ridge 5.8 ** 775'Begin just right of the couloir that is just right of the large main North Face. Start at the vertical crack down slope from the main ridge and climb two pitches to join the ridge, once on the ridge scramble up a pitch to the base of the North Tower, and then continue up the Tower to the top. P1 - 5.5 110' - climb the vertical crack until it's possible to step left and continue up the left side of the face. Good pro and interesting moves leads to a belay at th...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of North Face Tiffany Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: North Tower Ridge topo
BETA PHOTO: North Tower Ridge topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Helix and North Tower Ridge topos
BETA PHOTO: Helix and North Tower Ridge topos
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Face rock - "Main Wall" and &q...
BETA PHOTO: The North Face rock - "Main Wall" and &q...
Rock Climbing Photo: View north from hallway up the North Tower Ridge R...
View north from hallway up the North Tower Ridge R...
Rock Climbing Photo: NE Couloir Topo
BETA PHOTO: NE Couloir Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Granite faces from base of the NE Couloir Rt.
Granite faces from base of the NE Couloir Rt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up of right side of the North Face
Close up of right side of the North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face
North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face from Honeymoon Pass
North Face from Honeymoon Pass

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