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Mt Kenya
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North Face Standard Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 23 pitches, 2620', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Arthur Firmin and P.H. Hicks, July 31st 1944
Season: July-October
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: thehackattacks on Apr 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: En-route to Kami Hut, (which isn't a hut at all, m...

Description 

A classic, gutsy alpine climb right on equatorial East Africa. This is a bold, sometimes burly but constantly beautiful route that takes you to the roof of Kenya where jaw-dropping scenery sprawls beneath you in all directions. Any route on this African beast demands some mocksy--so quick is the word and sharp is the action. Embrace this old-school, rugged adventure of a lifetime

"This is the classic route up the north side!
From Kami Hut (4,400 meters), traverse south along the east side of the mountain, and up into the wide gully between the Krapf Rognon and the main peak. A circle with a cross in it is chipped into the rock at the start of the route.
Climb up 10 meters, then move right (don't go left!) into a couloir. Follow the couloir for about 60 meters, and continue up to a right-facing corner that is climbed for 30 meters to easy slabs. On the slabs, move right about 5 meters to gain a series of easy grassy ledges below a wall. Continue up and left, then traverse right to a steep chimney that leads to a large hanging amphitheater that looks down on both the east and north sides of the mountain. This is where many parties bivouac on the route.
Traverse left across the amphitheater and climb an easy slabby gully that leads up and left. Near the top of the gully, traverse back right and up to the base of Firmin's Tower. Climb the left of two cracks on Firmin's Tower for 20 meters, then move to the right crack, a chimney, for 15 meters, then move left again into the first crack for 10 meters. Easy scrambling leads to the top of Firmin's Tower.
From the top of the tower, follow the ridge, where another, smaller amphitheater is gained. Continue up the ridge above the amphitheater to reach the West Ridge proper, where there is an excellent bivouac site. Traverse left on easy ground to Shipton's Notch. From Shipton's Notch, traverse left on ledges to reach the summit of Batian (5,199 meters/17,054 feet).
Allow 1 full day (or 2) for the ascent.

Taken from-- "Kilimanjaro & Mount Kenya, A Climbing and Trekking Guide" by Cameron M. Burns, published by The Mountaineers, 1998

Location 

The start is marked by an obvious cross-in-circle symbol about the size of a Frisbee or dinner plate. Its at the top of the gully- be persistent and keep an eye out. There is also a commemorative plaque near-by for a climber who died on-route. Respect that fallen climber as your brethren, respect the mountain and your own life. Climb smart and solid-- no one wants another plaque there.

The North Face Standard route can be used as the descent route as well. Utilize double-rope rappels. Its still a ton of raps. Don't forget your head lamps and solid approach shoes. For more adventure you can also traverse the 'Gates of Mist" off Batian and rap down Nelion.
Below awaits Shipton's Camp, with hot food, warm bunks,flat ground, beaming locals, tales to yarn and glory to bask in. Welcome to the club!

Protection 

Full Rack up to #3 or #4 Camalot, nuts/hexes (think classic so think passive), tons of alpine draws, double ropes (for redundancy, potential rock fall and double-length rappels which you will want by the end).
Know how to build your own anchors! There are no bolted anchors or anything of the like. This is a BIG mountain (with seemingly endless pitches at times)--its pure alpine trad. However it does have many slung flakes etc (most with rap rings) but do not always rely on these, especially if you are combining pitches with a 70 m, get off route or just need to build your own anchor.


Photos of North Face Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Putting on approach shoes for the extensive gully ...
BETA PHOTO: Putting on approach shoes for the extensive gully ...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the top of Kenya
On the top of Kenya
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of the headwall and upper pitches, whi...
At the base of the headwall and upper pitches, whi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the easier terrain of the climb
Some of the easier terrain of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: On route...
On route...
Rock Climbing Photo: A great loop of the park's northern side (although...
BETA PHOTO: A great loop of the park's northern side (although...
Rock Climbing Photo: Our friends and Logistical Support! (Kirithu and W...
BETA PHOTO: Our friends and Logistical Support! (Kirithu and W...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shipton's Camp (aka Base Camp) and the last amenit...
Shipton's Camp (aka Base Camp) and the last amenit...
Rock Climbing Photo: I will never forget our excitement of being so clo...
I will never forget our excitement of being so clo...
Rock Climbing Photo: A humbling, awe-inspiring sight to behold...
A humbling, awe-inspiring sight to behold...
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful flora of Mt. Kenya National Park, the ...
A beautiful flora of Mt. Kenya National Park, the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Incredible sighting before camping out for the nig...
Incredible sighting before camping out for the nig...
Rock Climbing Photo: My climbing partner and best friend- Lucas Johnson...
My climbing partner and best friend- Lucas Johnson...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Moses- Camp 1 on the Sirimon Route
Old Moses- Camp 1 on the Sirimon Route
Rock Climbing Photo: His OTHER partner...
His OTHER partner...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Topo
BETA PHOTO: The Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Evaluating a guide with a jacked up knee
Evaluating a guide with a jacked up knee
Rock Climbing Photo: Our 'Mystery ridge'. Shivers will know...
Our 'Mystery ridge'. Shivers will know...
Rock Climbing Photo: A constant camp companion and fauna of the Kenyan ...
BETA PHOTO: A constant camp companion and fauna of the Kenyan ...
Rock Climbing Photo: In the rain forests en-route to Old Moses camp, on...
In the rain forests en-route to Old Moses camp, on...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is mountain luxury
This is mountain luxury
Rock Climbing Photo: Having a cup of chai at Bivouac site #1
Having a cup of chai at Bivouac site #1
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp life- resting and preparing at Shipton's Camp
Camp life- resting and preparing at Shipton's Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: Unbelievable views
Unbelievable views

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