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North Face Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Season: Spring, Summer Fall
Page Views: 6,218
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: North Face First Pitch Beta Photo. It's more ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1: Start up a 5.7 flake that is laden with large dikes. Climb up to the white bowl and belay here on three fixed pins.

P2: Continue up the prominent right-leaning crack that is a lot harder than it looks. The pro is good and abundant. Tight finger locks on a steep wall with no feet bring you through the crux. Belay at the small ledge just under the roof on two good bolt anchors.

P3: Continue straight up over a horrible-looking roof which is not as bad as it looks or go out right for a slightly harder variation with two closely spaced bolts for pro. Once over the roof, move out left up a series of cracks littered with fixed pins. Follow these cracks up the wildly exposed 5.9 face on large dikes and hand jams up to a large grass-filled ledge and belay there.

P4: Now continue up and left over some less-than-traveled rock; any number of ways (all about 5.6) to the top. Good stuff.

LOCATION: Starts just left of Stem Mister and Right of Power Lust. For add'l information see the Beta Picture herein


Cams .5"-4" Nuts 1 set

Photos of North Face Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Information on getting to an Alcove where you can ...
BETA PHOTO: Information on getting to an Alcove where you can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: butt shot on the wonderful corner (pitch 2).  I wo...
butt shot on the wonderful corner (pitch 2). I wo...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch corner
2nd pitch corner

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 4, 2007

Just did the first two pitches, but they were really good! P1 was a steep dikey 5.7 that was pretty fun, this would be a good alternative to a busy corrugation corner. You can rap from the top with two single rope raps, down to Stemmeister anchor and then to main ledge.

Followed p2, that is one outstanding pitch. relentless with great climbing and few true rests, good gear and some powerful moves. The roof start to p3 looked airy and scary!
By John Robinson
From: Elk Grove, ca
Sep 27, 2010

The second pitch of this route and others (Absolutely Brilliant, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along.
By Port
Jul 22, 2011

Only did the first two pitches. The second pitch was hard, the feet disappear halfway up and the finger locks are difficult. But the true difficulty is the pitch's sustained nature. There is a large block at the top of the pitch that is about to come loose. Be careful with it.

The third pitch looked hard, with lots of moss in the initial crack. We rapped from the top of 2.
By Michael Dom
Sep 18, 2016

Did this today and thought that the second pitch was super cool and sustained 11a. The third pitch is not 5.9. The moves through the roof scared me but it was really fun. Expect to clip a couple of pins and a bong out left. Be careful though because these top two pitches are full of loose rock. The last pitch had a cool traverse but ultimately led to bushes.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 23, 2017

Clarification on the belay spot in the "white dish" at the top of P1 - as of July 2017, there's just one nasty-looking fixed pin remaining that I could find. The Good news is that there's no need to use it, because there is a solid new-ish two-bolt anchor/rap station just up and left from the pin still well within reach of the comfortable flat belay spot. Note that if not topping out the full North Face route, this anchor/rap station won't get you down with a 70m rope.

However, the reason to bear through the dirty (though still fun) P1 of North Face in the first place is to access the awesome P2 11a lieback crack. From the top of this P2 crack, you can traverse a couple steps out right to another fixed anchor, and from there, one 70m rope will get you down and right to the fixed anchor for Stemmeister, where you can rap again to reach the ground. It did not appear to me that a 60m rope would work for the last rap.

Speaking of P2, totally awesome pitch. Again (as per my comments on Tombstone Terror), it reminded me of a harder version of the 3rd pitch of Oz in Tuolumne, but every bit as good. It's steeper than Oz for longer, but with some really bomber finger locks and hand jams to rest on before a couple cruxes. Gear is also excellent on this pitch just about the whole way. .4-1 are the pieces you'll really want for the pumpier placements, so rack your right-side gear loops accordingly.

As a bonus, if you want to do Absolutely Brilliant and/or Dragon Back after P2 of this climb, you can do a short, slightly rightward rap from the aforementioned P2 anchor to the small ledge at the base of those climbs. This avoids the need to do some sketchy 5th class moves or short belayed pitch that would be the other way to access those climbs from the "dish" belay.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 12, 2017

Thursday, August 10th, I took the ride with the block at the top of pitch 2.

The traverse is now dirty where the block was and of unknown difficulty.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Aug 13, 2017

Wo Eric, I take it you are ok?

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