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Castleton Tower
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North Face Original Pitch 1 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn & Doug Snively, 20 March 1974
Page Views: 3,140
Submitted By: david goldstein on May 2, 2004

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Is there a climb anywhere that has three independent variations to its first pitch that are better the North Face of Castleton's?

Star rating is compared to other Castleton 1 pitch climbs.

The rightmost of the three N. Face variations.

Climb fun steep 5.10 hands and laybacking with rests for about 60'. The crux comes at the top of a 10' right facing corner, a technical lieback exiting on to a slab.At the top of the slab, clip a bolt in a corner then make an improbable move to establish yourself in the corner. Easy but insecure -- if you blow it, you fall onto the slab -- climbing leads to a fixed pin, and an easy face traverse left. Steep 5.9ish cracks lead to a traverse left to the anchor.

Continue up N Face or, Sacred Ground or rappel to the ground. A single 70m rope just makes it.


Wires, 2ea TCUs, 3ea cams to 2". Long slings.

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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 23, 2009

Wow that pitch is excellent! Agree that the tips liebacking is the crux. I was perplexed at the blank dihedral above with the bolt but eventually figured it out. Gotta commit off the ledge before you can clip the bolt unless you're really tall. Solid lead by my partner and we did the blank section differently... improbable stemming got me through. A single 70m rope is good for the route but WATCH YOUR ENDS on the first rappel. We had to reach down to clip the anchor then rap off the ends of the rope.

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