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Cheam Peak
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North Face/ Northwest Ridge 

North Face/ Northwest Ridge 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Alpine, 6903', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a Steep Snow [details]
FA: D. Serl D, Herchmer D. Heppner K. Ulmer 1975
Season: All Year
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Jul 31, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The Face from the Knoll


This is a serious mixed climb involving a variety of challenges and made more dangerous because of falling stones. From the snow/talus slope beneath the North Face take avalanche runouts to a wooded knoll in the center of the base of the North Face. Ascend a pocket glacier here, then cut back back left across a rock band for one lead. In winter a 100m/300 ft couloir on the right may be used. Another 1 1/2 leads on snow then take you to the upper rock wall. Traverse right along the base of this wall for 3 leads to a corner, then follow easier snowand rock up to a point where the northwest ridge blends into the face. About 100m of class 3/4 scrambling on poor rock then lead to the west ridge. The FA party made their exit about 100ft west of the summit. Knifeblades and horizontals are recommended for belay stations. The climb takes a long day from the Highway.

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