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North Face left buttress T 

North Face left buttress 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1400', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b Easy Snow [details]
FA: 2008
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,050
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jun 18, 2009

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Pitch3

Description 

This route was climbed in the summer of 2008 on an attempt to repeat the 1993 Colorado route.The 1993 route moves out to the right onto the buttress crest. We were unable to figure out where the climb moved right. In any case, the route done was enjoyable and on excellent stone.

Cross the Glacier, should be fairly low-angle. Moat may be an issue. All lengths approximate.

P1. Begin in the blocky line of face holds just left of the gulley/chimney on the left edge of the buttress. Toward the end there is a wide crack, most of the pitch is low 5th. 70m 5.8

P2. Climb up and right to the top of the snow, aim for the clean wall below a shallow L-Facing corner. 20m Low 5th

P3. Up unprotected face climbing to the corner, which has good gear (fixed LA piton in place). From the top of the crack, hard 5.10 face climbing (great gear) leads to a ledge. 30m 5.10+

P4. Face climb left from the belay, then up the perfect flakes and cracks to the pedestal above. 40m 5.10-


P5. Move down and left from the belay to a hidden corner, and work your way back up and right to a spot above the belay. 30m 5.7


P6. Left and up to the bottom of a long seam/ finger crack. Move left at the base of the crack, and up/left around a series of corners and roofs. We belayed down near the chimney/gulley. 45m 5.10

P7. Up the featured arête to the right of the chimney/gulley, then up a perfectly white shallow dihedral, undercling right, and belay. Small TCUs usefull. Some may find this pitch runout. 5.10 30m

P8-P12. Follow the left side of the buttress to the top


Descent is via the East ridge and snow slopes to the North. Crampons and axe helpful but not mandatory depending on snow hardness and willingness to leave rock anchors/bollards.

Protection 

Gear to 3" with mostly small gear. Pitons useful.


Photos of North Face left buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the band of golden quartz
Following the band of golden quartz
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Face
BETA PHOTO: The North Face

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