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Wedding Rock
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Boltless Baetylus T,TR 
Contortion TR 
Deranged Sailor T,TR 
Dirty Girdle T 
High Tide Crack T 
Just Face It... T 
Lost Sailor T 
Low Tide Crack T 
Never Say Nada TR 
North Face (Direct) T 
Pandiculation TR 
Psycho Path T 
Riptide T 
Seamstress  TR 
Secret Passage TR 
Shellfish Roof T 
Terete Arête T,TR 
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 
Wedding Night Lingerie T 
Unsorted Routes:

North Face (Direct) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp (direct variation after vegetation grew in)
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on May 22, 2014

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Route line for North Face Direct

Description 

The North Face of Wedding Rock has been neglected by many climbers because of it's somewhat inconvenient access, loose blocks, often wet face, and lack of abundant protection. I removed all/most of the loose blocks and holds, so go out and enjoy!

There are three easily confusable starts, the route proper starts on an obvious crack feature in the center of the north face. The start crosses reachy wet holds (5.7) then continues up the feature (5.4) until a short headwall (5.8 crux). It then traverses rightward below a bush where you will want to belay on comfy dirt ledge. For the second pitch, follow the dihedral features up to the high point on the wall (5.7) passing a fun layback or jam crack (5.8 second crux).

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EDIT 5/3/15: I cleaned some non-native veg and dirt from the headwall and revealed some fantastic gear placements and a few nice jugs that drop it down to just 5.8 and gets rid of the crazy runnout. Bring a #00, 0, and 1 metolius for the headwall.

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The three pitch 5.7 mentioned in the guide is the Seagull's Traverse, which starts in the corner for one pitch, traverses right at the top of the slab for a pitch (little pro), then up to the top on the northwest side: Confirmed by talking with the Seagull Traverse first ascnetionist M. Butterworth.

Location 

Same access as Low Tide Crack

Protection 

Single set of cams up to #3, with emphasis in the small cams (Set of TCUs work great). Save some .2-.3" gear for the first anchor. Gear on the second pitch is easy and straightforward.

Gear has become much easier now that the rock is cleaning out.


Comments on North Face (Direct) Add Comment
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By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 22, 2014

Beautiful . . .
By Evan Wisheropp
May 22, 2014

Matthias, I was going to email you and see if you had any info on the route history on this old gem. I'm 90% sure the original 5.7 route is under the young bushes to the right of the headwall. If so, I guess this would need to be called North Face Direct 5.8, possibly 5.9. Either way, a gorgeous route!!
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 22, 2014

We tossed a rope down this and TR'd out via a couple different routes; it had looked like someone had been on it before us, but who knows- good lead!
By Nick Black
From: Arcata, CA
Jul 3, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Best route at Patrick's point! short offwidth/ layback at the the top, if you're not comfortable with wider cracks a #4 is nice to have.

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