North Face Direct
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Mountain Guides, CET Neva, St. Petersburg, Russia
North Face direct variant.
09/09/09 From Crater Lake - ~ vertical 1050 ft.
P1. 5.4. Climb first pitch of the Classic North face route (75 ft) to the bench with the trees.
P2. Scramble right and up on the ramp with trees for about 100 ft m and then climb up under small roof. (Just before the overhang we found remains of the repel station).
P3. 5.10. Crux. Make a delicate move into the crack under the roof and work over the overhang.
P4 and 5. Climb straight up (P4) and another pitch (P5) up and left (easy climbing, 5.5-5.6) to the large ledge below the summit bastion.
P6. Join with the crux pitch of the classic route (P5, 170 ft, 5.7).
P7. Continue on the classic route 100 ft to the summit.
Time from Crater Lake to summit - 5.5 hrs.
After climbing the overhang (P3).
BETA PHOTO: Scheme of the routes on the North face.