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North Face Arete 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 650', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: JT Croston and Nick Seymour
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: JT Croston on Sep 16, 2014

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Space Jam and North Face Arete

Description 

First pitch 5.7 - follow low angle rock to grassy ledge and climb up obvious corner below main arete. Semi-hanging belay below small roof (30m). Second pitch 5.9 - squeeze through roof chimney and continue up corner to nice belay below big roof/steep section (25m). Pitch 3 5.10 a/b - Climb easy line through the roof and continue past another small roof to a steep crack at the base of the arete; step right to bolted belay (40m). Pitch 4 5.10 - step right of arete onto face and through obvious crack to steep shallow flaring face/corner cracks (crux 1) to a belay just below a single bolt (30m). Note the belay is small gear and nuts so the bolt could make part of the anchor. Pitch 5 5.10 - continue up the face crack through a steep corner crack and two more bolts, past a small roof (crux 2) to easy ground and the summit (50 m - avoid rope drag by extenders on cams placed into the roof).

Location 

From the Mulvey Basin col follow the goat trail, descend through gully past loose rock to the base of the wall below the arete.

Protection 

Double BD cams to #3 (one #3 might be ok) and nuts


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