REI Community
North Face / North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anaconda T,S 
Inferno, The 
North End Chimney T 
Ryan's Inferno S 
Triple Exposure T,S 

North End Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Stanley Boucher and Vernon Twombly, 1946
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Zach Keskinen on Nov 6, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced MORE INFO >>>
  • 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This has sandy chimney climbing up the super obvious northern chimney.

    Start with unprotected, moderate climbing up the start of Triple Exposure for 40 feet until Triple Exposure cuts right and this route goes left. Follow loose climbing past some drilled angles and a piece of rebar into the chimney. The second pitch follows a sandy chimney with potholes to a sling.

    Rap Triple Exposure.

    Location 

    Ascend the obvious (from the main parking lot) chimney on the north side of North Gateway. Follow directions to the start of Triple Exposure.

    Protection 

    There is no fixed gear. Bring a standard rack up to #4 Camalot.


    Comments on North End Chimney Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Twombly
    From: Conifer, CO
    Feb 1, 2017

    My dad, Vern Twombly, says when they did the FA of this route in 1946 in leather sole army boots they had no protection at all. On other routes they found potholes to thread or spikes to sling, but here they found nothing. The drilled pins were all added later.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About