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North Face / North End
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Anaconda T,S 
Inferno, The 
North End Chimney T 
Ryan's Inferno S 
Triple Exposure T,S 

North End Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Stanley Boucher and Vernon Twombly, 1946
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Zach Keskinen on Nov 6, 2015

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  • Description 

    This has sandy chimney climbing up the super obvious northern chimney.

    Start with unprotected, moderate climbing up the start of Triple Exposure for 40 feet until Triple Exposure cuts right and this route goes left. Follow loose climbing past some drilled angles and a piece of rebar into the chimney. The second pitch follows a sandy chimney with potholes to a sling.

    Rap Triple Exposure.


    Ascend the obvious (from the main parking lot) chimney on the north side of North Gateway. Follow directions to the start of Triple Exposure.


    There is no fixed gear. Bring a standard rack up to #4 Camalot.

    Comments on North End Chimney Add Comment
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    By Greg Twombly
    From: Conifer, CO
    Feb 1, 2017

    My dad, Vern Twombly, says when they did the FA of this route in 1946 in leather sole army boots they had no protection at all. On other routes they found potholes to thread or spikes to sling, but here they found nothing. The drilled pins were all added later.

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