REI Community
The Dead Snag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ad Lib T 
Alor 1 T 
Call Me Slim T 
Dead Snag Direttissima T 
Die Another Day T 
Double Bock T 
East Dihedrals T 
Force of Nature T 
Funk T 
Gypsy Girl S 
Jig's Up T 
North Dihedrals T 
North Ridge T 
R&B T 
Rock! T 
Social Engineering T 
Steorts' Ridge T 
Tiger's Den T 

North Dihedrals 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,532
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Oct 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the variations of the North Dihedr...


This climb starts just around the corner to the right of Steort's Ridge and under the roof.

The climb follows the right side (north face)of Steorts Arete, climbing in the obvious dihedrals up faces and corners. In the Ruckman guidebook it shows 4 pitches, however, this depends on your rope length and comfort setting up belays. We climbed this in three. I don't recall each belay, however the first 3/4 of the climb is 5.5, with the last moves of the climb being the crux. You finish on the same ledge as Steort's Ridge.

The climb is a bit dirty and loose in spots, but it is worth climbing. There are definitely good sections of climbing. We ended up here because Steort's had a line, and it seemed like a good place to take a beginner. It was. If there are people on Steort's you will be climbing just to the right of them the whole way. It is a fun variation.


Standard trad rack

Photos of North Dihedrals Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the many second and third pitch variatio...
BETA PHOTO: A view of the many second and third pitch variatio...

Comments on North Dihedrals Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

There are some nice harder variations on this one. All are short, but some may be as hard as 5.8 or 5.9. One in particular is a beautiful hand and finger crack in the steep left face somewhere around the second pitch.
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Bobby is absolutely right about the 5.8 hand and finger crack in the middle of the route. It is reminiscent of Goodro's Wall, only not as steep. I was unable to pass it up. Just after the first belay, there is a steep crack with two rusty pins that offer a more interesting and challenging alternative.
By builttospill
May 7, 2009

Not sure we did it the same way as pictured, but the moves from the first belay up and around the corner are stellar. Basically the climb is great except the first pitch, though the whole thing is not sustained at all. Still good fun.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Mar 31, 2010

I have done the fun crack on the left wall, but we accessed it from steort's then traversed back onto steorts for the last pitch. Many fun variations on that arete!
By Mike Marmar
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 17, 2016

The second pitch handcrack is possibly the best pitch on all of dead snag.
By Mulch
From: SLC, Utah
Apr 23, 2017

Entire climb protects well with just nuts and hexes. Rating: G
By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 25, 2017

This can be done in 2 long pitches with a 70m, probably better though to split into 3, it's very hard to hear belayer at the top.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About