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North Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 653
Submitted By: JFM on Mar 24, 2012

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Phone-camera pic of the route. Sorry for the quali...

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  • Description 

    Per D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guidebook, this is the deep crack in the dihedral, just right of Mercy Drilling.

    Either smush into the crack or do dihedral moves.

    The crux was edging left onto the face at the end to reach the anchors for Mercy Drilling. Moving out is committing. Overall, there are good rests & several "what next?" spots for a 5.8 leader.

    Location 

    Walk around the corner from Choss Temple Pilots and find the big, shady dihedral & crack.

    Lower/rap off anchors.

    Protection 

    This takes gear from fingertips to fist. Medium stoppers could be useful.

    Use Mercy Drilling's bolted anchors with rap rings (to the left of the little cave at the top of the route).


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