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North Country for Old Men 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Oct 16, 2015

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P2 of North Country for Old Men (5.11a), Devil's W...

Description 

There's a bunch of great routes on this cliff, but this one is extra special. The first pitch is a nice, easy slab, and the top pitch is a corner and crack -- exposed and awesome -- and overhangs about 10'.

P1 5.7 G: Go up steps, through a notch, then a short slab to a blueberry ledge. Go straight up the slab above aiming for a short right-facing corner, above which is a comfortable ledge with a fixed anchor. 80'

P2 5.11a G: This is what you hiked here for. Step right from the ledge and go up a right-facing corner to a sloping stance. There's a couple deceptively difficult moves in this corner. From here it's a sprint to the top: go up an overhanging crack to the top. 80'

Location 

Approximately centered in the cliff is a tall, nearly featureless slab that runs the full height of the cliff, known as the Treadway Face. It's difficult to locate this slab from the ground, as it's hidden above large roofs. Right of this slab is a left-rising gully-slope in a giant right-facing corner. Scramble up the gully in the giant corner until you can move right onto a narrow ledge with a pine tree.

This is the tallest section of rock.

Protection 

Draws plus a green Alien, #0.3, #0.4, and #0.5 Camalots.


Photos of North Country for Old Men Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Backcountry Brawl
BETA PHOTO: Backcountry Brawl
Rock Climbing Photo: North Country for Old Men
BETA PHOTO: North Country for Old Men
Rock Climbing Photo: The top pitch of North Country for Old Men.
The top pitch of North Country for Old Men.

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