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North Couloir 

North Couloir 

AI1 PG13

Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 1300', Grade III
Original: AI1 PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Winter/Spring
Page Views: 202
Submitted By: Ryan Courreges on Mar 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Topping out the right fork


Head straight up the obvious big gully and follow up through a few constrictions until it widens up significantly. From here it splits and you can take the easier left fork to the summit ridge or cut right to get a couple hundred extra feet of the steepest part of the route through a body width constriction. The angle here is on the order of 45°. This fork will take you to the summit ridge a short walk from the top. You may encounter short bits of ice so crampons and at least one axe are recommended.

Beware of rock fall as the rock is very chossy and will continuously fall throughout the day as it melts. A helmet is mandatory and very large rocks falling on you is a possibility.

The easiest way down is to hike over to the main peak and take the ridge down to the headwall and then back through the canyon to the car.


The beginning of the climb is at 34.076734, -116.854433.


Probably don't take any pro or ropes. The almost certain rock fall makes this ill suited to being attached to anything keeping you from moving out of the way.

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