REI Community
Mount Abbot
Select Route:
North Couloir T 

North Couloir 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: Brower, Voge, Clyde - July 1934
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Sep 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: North Couloir of Mount Abbot.

Description 

The easiest way from the east is a fun alpine adventure.

From Treasure Lakes hike/scramble up to Treasure Saddle, then cross the glacier/snowfield northwards heading for the wide mouth of the couloir (base of couloir can also be accessed from Mills Lake). Climb moderate snow up the couloir until about halfway when a ledge system to the right allows you to escape and scramble up to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge south, it becomes knife edged and exposed in places, then relents and become easier across the summit slope to the top.

Best done in early season after a good cold night. Later on suncups appear on the glacier and make travel a tad tiresome, especially upon the descent. Nice and alpine with snow on the summit slope.

Descend by the same route.

Location 

Wide couloir on the right side of the east face.

Protection 

Helmet, ice axe and crampons.


Comments on North Couloir Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About