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Mount Abbot
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North Couloir T 

North Couloir 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: Brower, Voge, Clyde - July 1934
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Sep 11, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: North Couloir of Mount Abbot.


The easiest way from the east is a fun alpine adventure.

From Treasure Lakes hike/scramble up to Treasure Saddle, then cross the glacier/snowfield northwards heading for the wide mouth of the couloir (base of couloir can also be accessed from Mills Lake). Climb moderate snow up the couloir until about halfway when a ledge system to the right allows you to escape and scramble up to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge south, it becomes knife edged and exposed in places, then relents and become easier across the summit slope to the top.

Best done in early season after a good cold night. Later on suncups appear on the glacier and make travel a tad tiresome, especially upon the descent. Nice and alpine with snow on the summit slope.

Descend by the same route.


Wide couloir on the right side of the east face.


Helmet, ice axe and crampons.

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