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Gilpin Peak
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North Couloir 

North Couloir 


Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1200', Grade II
Original: AI2-3 Steep Snow [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: late spring / early summer
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Timothy Place on Jun 10, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: A look up the couloir from the base.


This starts out gently at 30 degrees and sweeps up steeper and steeper as it narrows toward the top.

The top is split by rock out crops into 3 possible exits, depending the conditions and choice of exit. For example, on June 8, 2014: the left side was guarded by a large, overhanging cornice; the middle chute was 80 degree thin snow from a melted cornice; and the right side was 55-60 degrees of somewhat unconsolidated snow. At some points later in the season it is possible for the right side to be a pitch of blue water ice.

Get an early start and try to be on top by 9 AM. As the sun warms, the walls' rock releases into the couloir.


Drive up the 4WD road to Yankee Boy Basin as far as you can. Then boot up as far as possible. Crampons are likely to be needed at some point if you are early in the season.

The route starts at the obvious couloir sweeping up the north side of the mountain from Yankee Boy Basin, opposite Sneffels.

Descend via the standard route.


Depending on conditions toward the top, you may want a couple of pickets or an ice screw.

Photos of North Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gilpin's North face from Mt. Sneffels, last weeken...
Gilpin's North face from Mt. Sneffels, last weeken...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the North Couloir on Yankee Boy Basin.
Base of the North Couloir on Yankee Boy Basin.

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