REI Community
Gilpin Peak
Select Route:
North Couloir 

North Couloir 

AI2-3

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1200', Grade II
Original: AI2-3 Steep Snow [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: late spring / early summer
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Timothy Place on Jun 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: A look up the couloir from the base.

Description 

This starts out gently at 30 degrees and sweeps up steeper and steeper as it narrows toward the top.

The top is split by rock out crops into 3 possible exits, depending the conditions and choice of exit. For example, on June 8, 2014: the left side was guarded by a large, overhanging cornice; the middle chute was 80 degree thin snow from a melted cornice; and the right side was 55-60 degrees of somewhat unconsolidated snow. At some points later in the season it is possible for the right side to be a pitch of blue water ice.

Get an early start and try to be on top by 9 AM. As the sun warms, the walls' rock releases into the couloir.

Location 

Drive up the 4WD road to Yankee Boy Basin as far as you can. Then boot up as far as possible. Crampons are likely to be needed at some point if you are early in the season.

The route starts at the obvious couloir sweeping up the north side of the mountain from Yankee Boy Basin, opposite Sneffels.

Descend via the standard route.

Protection 

Depending on conditions toward the top, you may want a couple of pickets or an ice screw.


Photos of North Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gilpin's North face from Mt. Sneffels, last weeken...
Gilpin's North face from Mt. Sneffels, last weeken...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the North Couloir on Yankee Boy Basin.
Base of the North Couloir on Yankee Boy Basin.

Comments on North Couloir Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About